[elgomez35]

I've got a 96 honda civic that won't start.

I've got spark, I've got fuel, I've got compression, still not starting. I took it to my mechanic after I suspected the timing belt might be off, but the timing is fine, they say. They tried starter fluid, no-go. Tried clearing a gas-flooded engine, no-go. They can't find a reason why the engine shouldn't start. They're baffled, and so am I.

I am completely out of ideas.

[this8384]

Did the vehicle stall out or did it just not start one day? Are they positive they unflooded the engine completely?

[elgomez35]

Did the vehicle stall out or did it just not start one day? Are they positive they unflooded the engine completely?

The car simply decided not to start one day. It sat for a couple of weeks, then one day it fired up. I drove it around the block a few times, and the car seemed to want to stall whenever I would accelerate hard. After that, it would not start again.

I suspected a fuel pump/filter problem, because the acceleration liked to stumble when the car got warmed up in earlier months. I changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, because I measured only 20-25 psi at the fuel rail. After the change, the fuel pressure got up into the 40's, but still no start.

I then thought that the engine had flooded with gas from trying to start it so much, so I cranked it without the fuel pump disconnected and the throttle wide open. I did this a few times a day for a couple of days. My mechanic tried this as well. He even dried it out with compressed air, left it sitting overnight with the spark plugs out, but nothing.

The spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor have been changed in the last few months (by me) but the car ran fine after that for at least a couple of months.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON? If it does, replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

[elgomez35]

Does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON? If it does, replace the Ignition Control Module and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Thank you for your response.

Yes, last I checked the CEL came on and off. Would a faulty ICM/coil still be suspect even though I have spark at the plugs? If so, why?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

ICMs are very problematic components. When they are failing, they may not "fire" precisely when the ECM directs.

The ICM and coil should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. If the problem persists, after changing the ICM and coil, I would replace the distributor housing (Genuine Honda only)--internal sensors (CKP, CYL, or TDC) may have failed. My bet is that the ICM is the culprit.

Flooding is a function of a problem with the ignition system. Since it wouldn't even start with starter fluid, it makes me suspect there is a fundamental problem with the ignition system.

[elgomez35]

ICMs are very problematic components. When they are failing, they may not "fire" precisely when the ECM directs.

The ICM and coil should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. If the problem persists, after changing the ICM and coil, I would replace the distributor housing (Genuine Honda only)--internal sensors (CKP, CYL, or TDC) may have failed. My bet is that the ICM is the culprit.

Flooding is a function of a problem with the ignition system. Since it wouldn't even start with starter fluid, it makes me suspect there is a fundamental problem with the ignition system.

Update:

I told my mechanic to replace the entire distributor assembly. The car fired up and now runs perfectly. The stumbling acceleration is gone. He said that the stumble I had for a few months was a warning sign that the distributor/coil/icm was failing.

TXgreasemonkey, thank you for your replies. You clearly know your stuff.

[Stratmando]

Interesting to see the mechanic knew what it was after it was fixed?