[civiclv]

Hi. My 96 civic won't start. I've have read so much on this site and find the information very helpful, but feel it could be a number of things. I replaced the timing belt and water pump less than 2 years ago. I would sometimes get a hesitant start on days when I let the gas tank go below 1/2. Other days I would get nothing, go in the store come out, turn key, dead. Wait about 4 min and try again, starts fine. Don't know if these probs are related to my current one. Well, one night go to leave work and no go, I did let the gas level get quite low that day. After no start I put enough gas in it to bring it to 1/2 tank plus some dry gas (Heet). Will crank, fuel pump turns on, I believe I smell gas in exhaust, check engine comes on when ignition is "on", tried to jump it, all lights work. Just won't start. I attempted to listen to the main relay, but can't hear anything, So many other beeps happening when I turn ignition to "on" position. I know very little about cars, most I've learned about my civic is on here, troubleshooting. Thank you!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. If the Check Engine Light (CEL) stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, my bet is the ECM needs to be replaced. In this case, perform the K-Test on the ECM (computer):

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If confirmed by the K-Test, you will need to remove and replace the ECM. Here's how to do it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

. If the CEL comes on and goes off, after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, then I would remove and test the Ignition Control Module and coil inside the distributor. Many AutoZone stores can do this for free. Here's how to remove the components yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

[civiclv]

Ok, I had a mechanic look at the car. He said I had no spark and it was the distributor. He put a new distributor in, I am concerned because it was not a genuine Honda distributor, but it was brand new. Well the car started with the new distributor. So it is driving well aside from a thump I hear when I start the car, except an hour after I took it home I was waiting in the mall parking lot for a friend and it stalled. It took about 5-10 min for me to get it started again and all the while I was trying to start it, it was showing the original no start symptoms when I allegedly had a bad distributor. I haven't had any start problems since, but I've only had the car back for 4 hours and I have already had an issue. Do you think this distributor may go on me, or is my timing off?

[civiclv]

Oh, also, when the car stalled at the mall, my fist couple starts sounded like a close start and then stall, the last few before it actually started up were just cranking.

[perryyo]

So did the mechanic correct the problem. I may be heading in the same direction and changing my distributor but I don't want to throw good money after bad.

[civiclv]

Well, ever since the first night having it back and having the no-start probs I got it started and it has been running fine ever since. I feel like it may growl a little more in general but otherwise I feel good about it, so far.

[perryyo]

Thanks for the reply and Glad to hear it's still running and no new problems.