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    FAQ: How to Troubleshoot, Repair & Maintain Hondas and Selected Other Vehicles

    Asked Dec 4, 2006, 09:16 AM 85 Answers
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    Last edited by TxGreaseMonkey; Jan 13, 2010 at 06:22 PM.
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    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
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    #61

    Jan 30, 2010, 01:32 PM



    16. FordParts.Com

    Enter your 17-character VIN and verify the part number you need:

    Motorcraft

    Great site to research Ford automotive products.


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    #62

    Feb 6, 2010, 06:29 PM



    54. Windshield Wiper Motor Replacement

    1. Open hood, remove cap nuts, and carefully remove wiper arms.

    2. Remove hood seal and air scoop, by prying out trim clips.

    3. Disconnect 5-P connector from windshield motor and remove wiper harness from wiper linkage.

    4. Remove wiper linkage assembly, by removing three mounting bolts.

    5. Remove three mounting bolts and one nut from the wiper linkage, to remove wiper motor.

    6. Install wiper motor in reverse order of removal.


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    #63

    Mar 30, 2010, 06:45 PM


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    #64

    Apr 16, 2010, 02:50 PM
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    #65

    Apr 17, 2010, 09:26 AM

    56. Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement


    1. Loosen wheel nuts slightly.

    2. Raise rear of car and support securely on jack stands placed under the rocker panel.

    3. Remove wheel nuts and rear wheel.

    4. Pull the parking brake lever up.

    5. Remove hub cap, raise locking tab on spindle nut, and remove spindle nut (32 mm socket) with a breaker bar or impact wrench.

    6. Release parking brake and remove drum. If you have disc brakes, remove the caliper shield and brake hose mounting bolt. Remove caliper, suspending it to one side on a wire; remove caliper bracket mounting bolts and caliper bracket; and remove brake disc.

    7. Remove and install new hub unit. Button everything up, apply parking brake, and tighten a new spindle nut to specification. Civic spindle nuts are often tightened 134 lb.-ft. (18.5 kg-m). Stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle with a ball pein hammer and chisel.


    Bearing life, to a large extent, is a function of preloading the bearing properly and ensuring the seal keeps water and contaminants out. Preload represents a tight bearing setting, whereas endplay represents a loose setting. Therefore, use good technique, a new spindle nut, and an accurate torque wrench when tightening spindle nuts. When you store a "click" type torque wrench, set it to zero.


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    #66

    Apr 19, 2010, 05:58 PM

    32. Brake Booster Test

    Functional Test:

    1. With engine off, depress brake pedal several times; then, depress the pedal hard and hold that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the master cylinder, brake line, or brake caliper is bad.

    2. Start engine with pedal depressed. If the pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working. If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or check valve is faulty.

    Leak Test:

    1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not vary, while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum booster is fine. If the pedal rises, the booster is faulty.

    2. With the engine off, depress the brake pedal several times using normal pressure. When the pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, pedal height should gradually rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check the booster check valve.

    Check Valve Test:

    1. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose at booster.

    2. Start engine and let it idle. Vacuum should be available--if not, the check valve is not working correctly. Replace the check valve and retest.


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    #67

    May 17, 2010, 06:19 PM
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    #68

    May 27, 2010, 06:34 PM
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    #69

    Jun 22, 2010, 07:10 PM
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    #70

    Jun 24, 2010, 08:13 PM
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    #71

    Jul 4, 2010, 05:14 AM

    60. Distributor Bearing Replacement

    See the link below:

    Guide to Distributor Bearing Replacement - TheZCR.com Forums

    I regret that I did not do this, when the bearing in my Civic's distributor failed--it would have been a great project! If you suspect damage to any of the internal sensors (CKP, TDC, or CYP), then I would pass on this project. Red dust inside indicates the bushing is shot and the distributor housing needs to be replaced.

    This link on using temperature differentials to mount bearings should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2527737


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    #72

    Jul 13, 2010, 01:29 PM

    6. Ford Diesel PSD Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)

    P0107--Barometric pressure sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: PCM's internal barometric sensor.

    P0108--Barometric pressure sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: PCM's internal barometric sensor.

    P0112--Intake air temp. sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

    P0113--Intake air temp. sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

    P0122--Accelerator pedal sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

    P0123--Accelerator pedal sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

    P0197--Engine oil temp. sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

    P0198--Engine oil temp. sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to 5v.

    P0220--Throttle switch B circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, switch failure, operator, PCM.

    P0221--Throttle switch B circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Failed pedal assembly.

    P0230--Fuel pump relay driver failure. Frequent Cause: Open FP relay, blown fuse, open/grounded circuit.

    P0231--Fuel pump circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Fuse, relay, inertia switch, fuel pump, open/short circuit.

    P0232--Fuel pump circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Relay failure, short circuit, pump failure.

    P0236--Turbo boost sensor A circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Restricted inlet/exhaust/supply hose, missing hose.

    P0237--Turbo boost sensor A circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Circuit open, short to ground, MAP sensor.

    P0238--Turbo boost sensor A circuit low high. Frequent Cause: Circuit short to power, MAP sensor.

    P0261--Injector circuit low. Frequent Cause: Cylinder 1 Harness short to ground.

    P0262--Injector circuit high. Frequent Cause: Cylinder 1 Miswired connector or harness.

    P0263--Cylinder 1 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0264--Injector circuit low Cylinder 2. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

    P0265--Injector circuit high Cylinder 2. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

    P0266--Cylinder 2 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0267--Injector circuit low Cylinder 3. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

    P0268--Injector circuit high Cylinder 3. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

    P0269--Cylinder 3 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0270--Injector circuit low Cylinder 4. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

    P0271--Injector circuit high Cylinder 4. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

    P0272--Cylinder 4 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0273--Injector circuit low Cylinder 5. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

    P0274--Injector circuit high Cylinder 5. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

    P0275--Cylinder 5 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0276--Injector circuit low Cylinder 6. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

    P0277--Injector circuit high Cylinder 6. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

    P0278--Cylinder 6 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0279--Injector circuit low Cylinder 7. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

    P0280--Injector circuit high Cylinder 7. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

    P0281--Cylinder 7 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0282--Injector circuit low Cylinder 8. Frequent Cause: Harness short to ground.

    P0283--Injector circuit high Cylinder 8. Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness.

    P0284--Cylinder 8 contribution/balance fault. Frequent Cause: Power cylinder, valve train or injector problem, circuit.

    P0301--Fault cylinder 1 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0302--Fault cylinder 2 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0303--Fault cylinder 3 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0304--Fault cylinder 4 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0305--Fault cylinder 5 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0306--Fault cylinder 6 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0307--Fault cylinder 7 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0308--Fault cylinder 8 Misfire detected. Frequent Cause: Mechanical engine failure.

    P0340--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, sensor fault, short to power.

    P0341--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Performance. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, charging circuit, sensor.

    P0344--Camshaft position sensor ckt. Intermittent. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, charging ckt. sensor, int. ckt. improper gap.

    P0380--Glow plug circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded ckt. solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM.

    P0381--Glow plug indicator circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, lamp open, failed PCM.

    P0460--Fuel level sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, cluster, tank unit, open case GND.

    P0470--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Biased sensor, open signal return.

    P0471--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit performance. Frequent Cause: Plugged, stuck or leaking hose.

    P0472--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

    P0473--Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM.

    P0475--Exhaust pressure control valve malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded ckt. solenoid open/shorted, failed PCM.

    P0476--Exhaust pressure control valve performance. Frequent Cause: Failed/stuck EPR control, EBP fault, EPR circuit.

    P0478--Exhaust pressure control valve high input. Frequent Cause: Plugged sensor line, stuck butterfly, restricted exhaust.

    P0500--Vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM, PSOM, TR failure, low trans. Fluid.

    P0503--Vehicle speed sensor noisy. Frequent Cause: Harness routing, sensor.

    P0541--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit.

    P0542--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Grounded circuit.

    P0560--System voltage malfunction. Frequent Cause: Charging system problem/load, glow plugs still enabled.

    P0562--System voltage low. Frequent Cause: Low sys. Voltage, charging sys. internal PCM failure.

    P0563--System voltage high. Frequent Cause: High sys. voltage, charging sys. internal PCM failure.

    P0565--Cruise "On" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

    P0566--Cruise "Off" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

    P0567--Cruise "Resume" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

    P0568--Cruise "Set" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

    P0569--Cruise "Coast" signal malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open or short circuit, switch failure, PCM failure or failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

    P0571--Brake switch A circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Cruise control codes will be set on every switch test on vehicles not equipped with cruise control.

    P0603--Internal control module KAM error. Frequent Cause: Open PCM pin, disconnect B+, faulty PCM.

    P0605--Internal control module ROM error. Frequent Cause: Internal PCM failure.

    P0606--PCM processor fault. Frequent Cause: Internal PCM failure.

    P0640--Manifold intake air heater... Frequent Cause: Circuit open or shorted to ground.

    P0670--Glow plug control circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, failed GPCM, failed PCM.

    P0671--Glow plug #1 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0672--Glow plug #2 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0673--Glow plug #3 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0674--Glow plug #4 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0675--Glow plug #5 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0676--Glow plug #6 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0677--Glow plug #7 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0678--Glow plug #8 circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed glow plug, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0683--Glow plug diagnostic signal communication fault. Frequent Cause: Circuit/connector failure, failed GPCM, PCM.

    P0703--Brake switch B circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

    P0704--Clutch switch input circuit malfunction; F650-F750 with Allison AT545: neutral switch. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch during KOER switch test.

    P0705--TR sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Resistance in circuit, faulty sensor, PCM.

    P0707--TR sensor circuit low input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

    P0708--TR sensor circuit high input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to power.

    P0712--Trans. Fluid temp. sensor ckt. Low input. Frequent Cause: Short to ground, biased sensor, PCM.

    P0713--Trans. Fluid temp. sensor ckt. High input. Frequent Cause: Open in circuit, biased sensor, PCM, short to power.

    P0715--TSS sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

    P0717--TSS intermittent failure. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

    P0718--Noisy TSS. Frequent Cause: Erratic signal, sensor, intermittent circuit.

    P0720--OSS sensor circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

    P0721--Noisy OSS. Frequent Cause: Erratic signal, sensor, intermittent circuit.


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    #73

    Jul 13, 2010, 01:30 PM

    7. Ford Diesel PSD Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Continued)

    P0722--OSS intermittent failure. Frequent Cause: Short/open circuit, sensor, PCM.

    P0732--Gear 2 incorrect ratio. Frequent Cause: Mechanical/hydraulic failure, 4x4 switch failure.

    P0733--Gear 3 incorrect ratio. Frequent Cause: Mechanical/hydraulic failure, 4x4 switch failure.

    P0741--Torque converter clutch ckt. Performance. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

    P0743--Torque converter clutch system electrical. Frequent Cause: Faulty solenoid, circuit, PCM.

    P0750--Shift solenoid A malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

    P0755--Shift solenoid B malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

    P0781--1-2 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

    P0782--2-3 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

    P0783--3-4 Shift malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, faulty clutch, PCM.

    P1000--OBDII monitor status. Frequent Cause: OBDII monitors/drive cycle incomplete.

    P1105--Dual alternator upper fault (monitor). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

    P1106--Dual alternator lower fault (control). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

    P1107--Dual alternator lower circuit malf. (control). Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, alternator failure, PCM.

    P1108--Dual alternator BATT lamp ckt. Malf. Frequent Cause: Open/short circuit, lamp, fuse, PCM.

    P1118--Manifold air temp sensor out of range low. Frequent Cause: Short to GND MAT circuit, MAT sensor.

    P1119--Manifold air temp sensor out of range high. Frequent Cause: Open/short to PWR circuit, MAT sensor.

    P1139--Water in fuel lamp circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: WIF lamp, circuit failure, fuse, PCM.

    P1140--Water in fuel condition. Frequent Cause: Water in fuel, grounded circuit, shorted sensor, PCM.

    P1184--Engine oil temp out of self test range. Frequent Cause: Engine too cold/hot, leaking thermostat, ckt. sensor.

    P1209--ICP system fault. Frequent Cause: IPR valve stuck.

    P1210--ICP above expected level. Frequent Cause: ICP sensor, open signal return.

    P1211--ICP pressure above/below desired. Frequent Cause: IPR valve failed, stuck, or shorted to ground.

    P1212--ICP voltage not at expected level. Frequent Cause: Biased sensor or ckt. open signal return, low oil in reservoir.

    P1218--CID stuck high. Frequent Cause: CID circuit open, probably intermittent.

    P1219--CID stuck low. Frequent Cause: CID circuit short to ground, probably intermittent.

    P1247--Turbo boost pressure low. Frequent Cause: MAP hose, sensor, EBP sys, intake leaks, turbo.

    P1248--Turbo boost pressure not detected. Frequent Cause: MAP hose, sensor, EBP sys, intake leaks, turbo.

    P1249--Waste gate steady state failure. Frequent Cause: GND short, plugged hose/port, solenoid, actuator.

    P1260--Electronic positive anti-theft system failure. Frequent Cause: Refer to appropriate workshop manual.

    P1261 to P1268--High to low side short cyl. # 1-8. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, shorted injector, failed IDM.

    P1271 to P1278--High to low side open cyl. # 1-8. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, open injector, failed IDM.

    P1280--ICP circuit out of range low. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

    P1281--ICP circuit out of range high. Frequent Cause: Circuit shorted to 5v, biased sensor, PCM.

    P1282--Excessive ICP pressure. Frequent Cause: Faulty IPR regulator (sticking), IPR short to ground.

    P1283--IPR circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, stuck IPR, loose connection.

    P1284--ICP failure aborts KOER CCT test. Frequent Cause: See codes P1280, P1281, P1282, P1283, P1211.

    P1291--High side # 1 (right) short to grd. Or B+. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty IDM.

    P1292--High side # 2 (left) short to grd. Or B+. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty IDM.

    P1293--High side open bank No. 1 (right). Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty IDM.

    P1294--High side open bank No. 2 (left). Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty IDM.

    P1295--Multiple faults on bank No. 1 (right). Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness, short to ground.

    P1296--Multiple faults on bank No. 2 (left). Frequent Cause: Miswired connector or harness, short to ground.

    P1297--High sides shorted together. Frequent Cause: Shorted wires, faulty IDM.

    P1298--IDM failure. Frequent Cause: Internal IDM failure.

    P1316--Injector circuit/IDM codes detected. Frequent Cause: Injector circuit failure/IDM codes detected.

    P1391--Glow plug circuit low input, bank #1 (right). Frequent Cause: Open/short/miswired circuit, faulty relay, glow plugs.

    P1393--Glow plug circuit low input, bank #2 (left). Frequent Cause: Open/short/miswired circuit, faulty relay, glow plugs.

    P1395--Glow plug monitor fault, bank #1. Frequent Cause: One or more glow plugs failed or circuit fault.

    P1396--Glow plug monitor fault, bank #2. Frequent Cause: One or more glow plugs failed or circuit fault.

    P1397--System voltage out of self test range. Frequent Cause: Voltage too high or low for glow plug monitor test.

    P1464--A/C on during KOER CCT test. Frequent Cause: Operator error, A/C circuit shorted to power.

    P1501--Vehicle moved during testing. Frequent Cause: Operator error.

    P1502--Invalid test APCM functioning. Frequent Cause: APCM active while KOER test is running.

    P1531--Invalid test accelerator pedal movement. Frequent Cause: Accelerator moved during KOER on-demand or CCT test.

    P1536--Parking brake applied fail. Frequent Cause: Circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch KOER.

    P1660--OCC signal high. Frequent Cause: High system voltage, internal PCM fault.

    P1661--OCC signal low. Frequent Cause: Low system voltage, internal PCM fault.

    P1662--IDM EN circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open relay, blown fuse, open/grounded circuit.

    P1663--FDCS circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, faulty IDM.

    P1667--CID circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Open/grounded circuit, faulty IDM.

    P1668--PCM/IDM diag. communication error. Frequent Cause: Open/shorted EF or FDCS wire, open IDM grd.

    P1670--EF signal not detected. Frequent Cause: Open/shorted EF circuit.

    P1690--Waste gate failure. Frequent Cause: WGC circuit or solenoid, PCM.

    P1702--TRS sensor intermittent circuit malfunction. Frequent Cause: Sensor, wiring, PCM, mechanical alignment.

    P1704--Digital TRS failed to transition state. Frequent Cause: Sensor, wiring, PCM, mechanical alignment.

    P1705--TR sensor out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Operator error, circuit failure, faulty sensor, PCM.

    P1711--TFT sensor out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty sensor, PCM.

    P1713--TFT stuck in range low below 50F. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM.

    P1714--Shift solenoid 1 inductive. Frequent Cause: Circuit, solenoid, PCM.

    P1715--Shift solenoid 2 inductive. Frequent Cause: Circuit, solenoid, PCM.

    P1718--TFT stuck in range high above 250F. Frequent Cause: Sensor, circuit, PCM.

    P1728--Transmission slip error. Frequent Cause: Solenoid failure or mechanical failure.

    P1729--4x4L low switch error. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty switch, PCM.

    P1744--Converter not functioning. Frequent Cause: Converter solenoid/hydraulic/mechanical failure.

    P1746--EPC solenoid open circuit. Frequent Cause: Open circuit, faulty solenoid, PCM.

    P1747--EPC solenoid short circuit. Frequent Cause: Short circuit, faulty solenoid, PCM shorted to ground.

    P1754--Coast clutch solenoid ckt. Malfunction. Frequent Cause: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM.

    P1760--EPC solenoid short intermittent. Frequent Cause: Switch not detected during self test, circuit, switch.

    P1780--TCS circuit of out self-test range. Frequent Cause: Circuit, switch, PCM, failed to activate switch KOER.

    P1781--4x4L circuit out of self-test range. Frequent Cause: Operator error, short to ground, PCM.

    P1783--Transmission overtemperature condition. Frequent Cause: Internal trans. Failure, circuit failure, sensor, PCM.

    P1902--Kickdown solenoid relay control circuit failure. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM, faulty wiring.

    P1903--Kickdown solenoid circuit low voltage. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM.

    P1904--Kickdown solenoid circuit high voltage. Frequent Cause: Blown fuse, failed relay, open control circuit, faulty PCM, open in ASMM (circuit #175).


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    #74

    Nov 6, 2010, 07:46 AM

    36. Locating Vacuum Leaks

    Only perform the tests below with the car outdoors, with a working fire extinguisher at hand, and with the engine cold.

    The sign of a vacuum leak is often that the engine stalls but will start right back up. If your scan tool indicates that the engine is trending rich, look for a vacuum leak, since a vacuum leak creates a lean condition which the ECM compensates for by enriching the mixture.

    1. Start engine and listen for high pitch leak sounds.

    2. Spray carburetor cleaner around intake manifold, base of injectors, PCV valve, vacuum hoses, and EGR valve. You have located the leak, when you hear the engine rpm increase or the engine stalls with the spray. It's safer to use a propane leak tester, which you can make yourself. Remove the nozzle to a propane torch and attach a two foot long piece of tubing.

    3. Reset the ECM, once you locate and repair the leak. If gas mileage was negatively affected, it may take a while for internal monitors to normalize.


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    #75

    Nov 8, 2010, 08:50 AM

    37. Buying a Used Car or Truck


    The check list below is not all-enclusive. If the engine and transmission are in good shape, everything else is, relatively, less significant.


    1. Check the condition of the engine. Remove the oil filler cap and look inside. If the oil is oxidized or a gooey mess, walk away. Reach inside with your finger and rub it against the valve cover. If it's nice and clean, you likely have a well-maintained engine. Also, check the exhaust, while the engine is running, for any sign of smoke or gasoline smell. White smoke is prima facie evidence of a blown head gasket or cracked head. Blue smoke indicates oil is being burned. If the blue smoke appears only during acceleration, the valve seals or valve guides are shot. Continuous blue smoke is a sign the rings are shot. If in doubt about the engine, remove all of the spark plugs and check each cylinder's compression. Record the results for analysis. Ensure that the Check Engine Light does not stay on. Verify that the engine oil and filter were changed regularly; i.e. 3,000 miles or 3 months for conventional oil, 6,000 miles or 6 months for full synthetics. Is the engine smooth, powerful, and quiet?

    2. Check the transmission. While the engine is hot, and in Park, remove the dipstick and see if the ATF comes to the top of the FULL mark. The fluid should be pink and not have a burnt smell. Ensure the transmission upshifts and downshifts smoothly, not harshly. Verify that the fluid and filter were changed every 30,000 miles.

    3. Check the cooling system. Remove the radiator cap and look inside. Signs of rust, mineral build-up, gel, or other signs of neglect should cause you to move on. Examine the contents of the overflow tank--anything besides coolant is suspect. Observe where the temperature gauge rides. Ideally, the coolant (50/50 antifreeze and distilled water) was changed every two to three years.

    4. Check the brakes. Look for leaking brake fluid around the master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinders. Check the thickness of the brake pads and shoes. Ensure the ABS light does not come on. Test drive the vehicle and observe the brakes. Pay attention to stopping quality, steering wheel shimmy upon braking, pulling, and any noises (e.g. worn wheel bearings). Ideally, the brake fluid was changed every two years.

    5. Check heating, air conditioning, and defrosting systems. Ensure the heater and air conditioning systems work really well. Verify that the rear window defroster works.

    6. Check the charging system. Ensure that the battery light does not come on, while the engine is running. If it has a voltmeter or ammeter, note where the needle rides. Attaching a multimeter to the battery terminals, with the engine idling, the regulated battery voltage should be 14 to 15 volts.

    7. Check condition and level of fluids; e.g. engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, hydraulic clutch (brake) fluid, and power steering fluid.

    8. Check the tires. Ensure the tires are name brand, quality tires. Look for signs of unusual tread wear.

    9. Check the suspension. Look for sagging--an indication of worn springs or struts. Jack up the front end of the car. With your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, check for tie-rod wear. With you hands at 12 and 6 o'clock check for ball joint wear.

    10. Check door and trunk gaskets for leaks. Ensure that the car was never flooded.

    11. Check the maintenance log. Review log and back-up receipts for work performed.

    12. Check the body for dents, dings, and other body work.

    13. Verify that the stereo, GPS, power windows, power seats, and other electrical systems work.

    14. Check Kelly Blue Book and/or Edmunds.com prices, for starters.

    15. Get the VIN, obtain a Carfax Report on the vehicle, and review its history. Ensure there are no liens on the car, that the title is clean and transferable, and that you are dealing with the legal owner (check I.D.).


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    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,642, Reputation: 5592
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    #76

    Dec 13, 2010, 05:33 PM

    38. Block/Head Sealers

    I'm skeptical of all of these products! People come on this site claiming stop leak products work--most of whom work for the manufacturer. All I've ever seen, in real life, is the mess created afterwards--residue formed around the thermostat, radiator cap, and a token layer of crud around some parts of the head gasket (not enough to seal anything). My opinion is to fix it right or leave it alone. I would not use them on my vehicles. These overpriced products prey on the poor and desperate.


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    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,642, Reputation: 5592
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    #77

    Dec 16, 2010, 09:44 AM
    Wip
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    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,642, Reputation: 5592
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    #78

    Jan 1, 2011, 08:45 AM

    39. Heater Problems


    Most heater problems are a result of poor preventive maintenance, which causes corrosion and/or phosphate scale to develop in the heater core. Changing coolant every 2 to 3 years, using a 50/50 mixture of manufacturer recommend antifreeze and distilled water, will prevent these problems.


    1. Ensure the radiator is full of coolant.

    2. Ensure there is no air in the system.

    3. Ensure heater hoses are not kinked or collapsed.

    4. Replace the thermostat, which may have stuck open.

    5. Check if the inlet and outlet lines to the heater core are hot, when the heater is turned to high. This tells you if coolant is circulating properly. If both lines are not hot, the heater core may be blocked, due to corrosion or phosphate scale, or the heater control valve may not be working properly. In this case, reverse flush the heater core. Afterwards, refill with a 50/50 mixture of manufacturer recommended antifreeze and distilled water. If the heater core is plugged, and the flush and fill does not solve the problem, then either the heater core or heater control valve needs to be replaced.


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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,642, Reputation: 5592
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    #79

    Jan 15, 2011, 07:14 AM

    40. Buying a Salvage Engine

    I recommend, if necessary, paying extra for a warranty covering the engine and labor, since there's a fair degree of risk.


    Be careful buying an engine from salvage--it's easy to get burned! Most low mileage salvage engines have been involved in an accident. Check out the engine very carefully. First, remove the oil filler cap and look for obvious signs of oil oxidation on the cap, rocker arms, and valve cover. Take your finger and rub it across the underside of the valve cover. Look for signs of sludge, wear, rust, and neglect. Next, start spinning things--water pump, alternator, and crankshaft. To rotate the crankshaft, remove all of the spark plugs. Some mechanics squirt inside the cylinders engine oil or ATF, due to the high detergents, to break up any rust ridges. Everything should rotate smoothly and without wobble. Finally, verify the engine number is what you're looking for. Pay particular attention to sensors, wiring harness, engine mounts, and transmission bell housing. Act in haste, repent at leisure.


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    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,642, Reputation: 5592
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    #80

    Jan 25, 2011, 04:28 PM

    41. GM's New Radio Code Procedure

    GM has a new procedure for radio codes. If power is lost and/or the radio is disconnected for any reason, the radio code will be lost and the radio will not work. A dealer must input the code because the codes change on a regular basis. Any dealer can re-install the code, but they have to get the code from GM on the day they do the work.
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