Check out some similar questions!

mpking · Jan 20, 2007, 11:43 PM

Recently purchased a new house. 2 bedroom ranch approx 900sqft.

The house was constructed in 1955. The panel was replaced by the previous owner. (By a professional electrician)

I was a professional Lowvoltage (DataComm) installer for quite some time, so I have experience fishing wires.

All of the wiring has grounds, but they are not connected on the receptacle end. (They were correctly grounded in the new panel)

We're going to replace all the light fixtures and receptacles with 15amp version (These are what the new breakers are)

However the Bathroom is a problem. It has no outlet, and the light is wired into all the other lights in the house. (All ceiling lights in house are on same breaker, individually switched)

I'm running a new 12/2 line to a GFCI outlet in the bathroom, off a 20amp breaker. Wife needs the hairdryer, and I've read on here that NEC requires 20amp outlets in bathrooms.

I also need to add a vent fan (with a light but not in the shower itself, in the center of the room). There is also a second light over the sink (the orignal location) that we want to keep. We'd like to have all the lights on the same switch.

Can (should) all this be on the same 20amp breaker? The receptacle has to feed from the attic (Which is accessible) due to several crossblocks in the wall. I realize I need 20amp switches for this scenario, and would have to remove all the existing wiring.

Assuming this is possible and the desired course I'd imagine running the circuit to a junction box located above the ceiling of the bathroom.
Take the 1st branch off to the GFCI
Take the 2nd branch off to a switch to run the Fan
Take the 3rd branch off to a switch to a junction box, to the two lights?

Also, currently the switch is located in the hallway. Is there any reason I can't relocated it to the inside of the bathroom?

Thanks for the help

Mike

tkrussell · Jan 21, 2007, 04:43 AM

Yes a new installation for a bathroom needs to be 20 amp with all #12 cable, due to the size and quantity of hair appliances.

Your circuiting seems fine.

You don't need to use 20 amp switches, you can if you like, they are made very well, but not necessary.

And there is no reason you can't relocate the switch.

mpking · Jan 21, 2007, 09:45 AM

Originally Posted by tkrussell

You don't need to use 20 amp switches, you can if you like, they are made very well, but not necessary.

Just want to follow up on this. I guess it's my computer programmer side of me.

It seems illogical to put a 15 amp on a 20 amp circuit.

tkrussell · Jan 21, 2007, 10:17 AM

A 15 amp switch is only controlling a fixture that certainly will not exceed 15 amps let alone 20. It is allowed, like I said if you want to use 20 amp switches then no problem, either switch is fine.

mpking · Jan 21, 2007, 05:49 PM

Originally Posted by tkrussell

A 15 amp switch is only controlling a fixture that certainly will not exceed 15 amps let alone 20. It is allowed, like I said if you want to use 20 amp switches then no problem, either switch is fine.

No, that makes sense.

Thank you for the help.

mpking · Jan 21, 2007, 07:41 PM

Originally Posted by tkrussell

Your circuiting seems fine.

One more question. Junction boxes... I've only ever seen steel in my travels. Plastic one's OK? I've seen more of these for sale lately. (Just because it's forsale, doesn't mean it's code)

tkrussell · Jan 22, 2007, 02:57 AM

Sure plastic boxes are fine, but only can be used with Romex cable.

mpking · Jan 25, 2007, 11:41 PM

Ok... I just completed the wiring... But before I turn on the breaker, I want to check something

For the light / fan combo. I ran one feed wire to the switch box. I then connected all the whites together, and then split the black into the two switches.

In the Light/fan box, I again connected all the whites together again.

Is this a problem? Essentially, The White comes in, is split onto two cables, and then rejoined.

If it is a problem (and only if), what do I do, just wirecap both ends of one of the whites so It won't be connected at either end.

Thanks again.

Mike

tkrussell · Jan 26, 2007, 03:28 AM

Sounds like you ran 2 two wire to the fan/light, with one black for fan from switch, and one black for light from switch, and the two whites rejoining at the fan/light?

If so, then really should not do this, as you are paralleling the two whites. This is a huge technicality, the load of each the fan or the light is so small, not even worth talking about, I don't expect any trouble if you left it, just letting you know exactly what and why it should not be done.

But to be exact, use the white in the cable feeding the light for the light white, and same for the fan.

If this is not what you have,please explain further.

Make sense?

mpking · Jan 26, 2007, 07:09 AM

Yes, that's what I did. I parralled the white. Now that I know this is bad, I will fix, and avoid it in the future.

So what's the accepted practice not to replicate this?

Use just one of the whites (I'm assuming the light is the preference). What do I do with the white in the fan wire? Just cap the whites at both ends?
Just cut it off?

tkrussell · Jan 26, 2007, 12:16 PM

Normally a 3 wire plus ground cable is used, black-light, red-fan, and white-common, instead of two 2 wire cables.