[JKOBD]

As I have searched through many threads on this subject, I just wanted some additional information if possible.

My house was rough plumbed for sink, toilet and shower in the basement. I am solid on what I need for the sink as most of the work is done there. Just need to add the ptrap and plumb it up to the sink base. It is plumbed the same way as the rest of the my bathrooms in the house.

The toilet is a 5" pipe sticking up about 8" from the slab. The shower is a 2.5" pipe about 8" below the slab. The shower and the toilet drain all flow to the same location all going to outside sewer.

The shower I am pretty confident that I need to add the Ptrap and it is almost finished.

The toilet, I am kind of lost still.

Also, there is no vent for the bathroom... nor is one roughed in. I need to do some more police work to see where I can tie this in or if I can make it to the outside of the house easily.

Some pre-thoughts from the experts?

I will upload some pictures tonight from the house computer..

[massplumber2008]

Hey JKOBD...

The toilet pipe may measure nearly 5 inches, but it is considered a 4 inch pipe... same for the shower pipe, 2.5" measure is really a 2" pipe (all about the inside diameter here).

The vent for the bathroom group is probably the vent for the sink. In this case the 2" drain pipe that goes to the sink probably acts as a WET VENT for the toilet and the shower and as a dry vent for the sink itself. Here, all you should need to do to finish venting this bathroom is to run the sink pipe full size 2" all the way to where it can connect into another 2" vent upstairs or you can penetrate the roof with this pipe by itself.

Adding 2" trap to shower is correct.

Toilet needs a 4" closet flange. You can cut the 4" pipe flush with the rough floor using a sawzall with a long metal sawzall blade (or can buy an inside pipe cutter and cut pipe down with that). Hopefully, your contractor wrapped the pipe with foam or something similar so you can remove the foam (or similar material) and set (prime/cement) the closet flange OVER the pipe so it sets on TOP of the finish floor.

If no foam or space left around the 4" pipe then you will need to purchase a 4" TWIST AND SET closet flange that sets inside the pipe.. no cement or primer here... just a rubber ring.

Then line the closet flange up so can set toilet bolts properly and secure to concrete using some masonry anchors and screws or can also use tapcon screws to secure the flange as well (need masonry drill bit here, too).

Let us know if you have more questions... glad to help...

MARK

[JKOBD]

Pictures worth a thousand words... Sink on left, toilet center, shower bucket on right in first picture.




You can see the hot/cold water lines on the top of the second picture.



Unfortunately in the third picture, you can see the rough plumb for the sink is too close to the wall. By the time I frame this up, the setup will be in the wall. I am going to cut it off, rotate and use a coupler so that the pipe is coming out away from the wall and I can put the trap under the sink.




The vent system installed at the top of the pipes is the same everywhere in the house.




Dig it out some, cut it back a little and add my trap.



I set my shower pan down over the shower drain hole and it is definitely not level. My thinking is to frame up around it, install mortar down on the floor, set the shower pan in it. Then take a level and put it side to side / front to back and get it level, support and let it dry.

STill undecided about what to do with the bathroom exhaust fan/vent though. No real good ideas popping up giving the location and what's around it.

[massplumber2008]

jkobd...

All sounded good... you will definitely need a 4" twist and set flange. I'm betting the contractor planned on a 2"x4" wall being built here...to confirm this, measure off existing wall 4" (3.5" plus 1/2" sheetrock/plasterboard) and then check measure to CENTER of the toilet pipe. AFTER the 4" measure you should have between 11.5 to 12" to center of toilet pipe. A 12" rough (or 11.5") is correct measure off stud wall for normal (and cheapest) toilets.

Rotate the pipe for lavatory and move the vent (AAV) so it will be in under the vanity and can be changed in future if needed.

Shower should be set in a bed of mortar or a bed of structolite gypsum plaster... or read manufacturer's instructions to see what they recommend for bedding substrate. Add a 2" ptrap here.

Exhaust fan vent should be able to run inside joist bay and penetrate the outside wall in same bay... yes..?

PS... don't forget that when you build the wall the floor plate should be pressure treated lumber... use adhesive to bobond plate to floor and then use ramset to nail plate to floor. Just FYI... ;)

Good luck with all.

MARK

[Milo Dolezal]

That lav pipe with AAV vent on top is also vent for toilet.

As far as sizes go: you measured O.D. and we go by I.D. That's why you came with 5" and we call it 4"... Don't forget the U/G trap for shower.