[nate220]

Would it be necessary to install a backwater check valve? My street drops way below my basement level within a couple hundred of my house so there would need to be a backup pretty close to my house.

[speedball1]

Backups from the city sewer do occur but they are rare. Your sewer would have to back up in every house from yours to the lift station before it got to you. I'd say you were pretty safe from a street main back up unless your area's troubled by by a overloaded sewer after a heavy rain. Gopod luck, Tom

[nate220]

Speedball, thanks

Do you see any problems with my layout with a the corrections that milo suggested?


Another question, if I run a vent with an AAV at the tub and sink, should they be 1.5" or 2"

[speedball1]

Speedball, thanks

Do you see any problems with my layout with a the corrections that milo suggested?


Another question, if I run a vent with an AAV at the tub and sink, should they be 1.5" or 2"

Sorry for the delay. My friend moved back from Kansas and I've been a wee bit busy.
Since you show the drain exiting out the left side that's the vent layout I'll comment on. I can find nothing to add on Milos lay out. All the fixtures , (including the toilet) have been vented. I figure if a plan will pass UPC it will pass any where.

Another question, if I run a vent with an AAV at the tub and sink, should they be 1.5" or 2

I would check your local building department to see if AAV's are allowed . If they are I would run the vents at 2". Good luck, Tom

[nate220]

Speedball

I have checked and AAVs are allowed.

I was asking on whether my original layout would work with using the 45s to make the turns to the toilet and sink and also adding the tub vent like Milo suggested.

I really don't want to run each fixture to the san main and either cut into it 4 times or replace 15 feet of it.


When connecting the old 4" cast iron to 4" pvc, does the steel banded coupler just connect to each pipe or are there any adapter required on the PVC end

[Milo Dolezal]

Nate: they actually sell Fernco fitting 4"Cast Iron to 4"PVC. It has the rubber insert slightly thinner on PVC side and thicker on C.I. side. But if you have problem locating this specific fitting you could use regular C.I.x C.I. Fernco too. Just be careful when tightening so you don't crimp the metal band.

[nate220]

Thanks - Milo


I purchased the DWV fittings (ouch for 4") and layed them out. I have realized that in trying to use the existing floor drain wye for everything doesn't really make sense, there are just too many bends and i would have to rip a lot of concrete.

I am attaching a revised layout similar to what Milo suggested (should have listened sooner). I have broken it up into 2 mini groups. Its in the red

My questions are

1. I am assuming that tying into the main more than once is acceptable

2. Does the toilet line still need to be 4"

3. I will use an AAV on the toilet to vent it, will the AAV on the sink be enough for the tub to be wet vented or should it have its own AAV.

4. Are there any other issues?

Sorry, I posted the wrong image. This one is correct.

[nate220]

For some reason my previous question didn't come in on a new time. Please see previous post with questions and revised layout (bottom image with red)
Thanks

[nate220]

I went to the local plumbing store. The fernco adapter they had was a 4"x4" or a 4.5" x 4". Both of them only had the skinny metal clamp. From other posts, I think most suggest to use the adapter that have the solid metal around the rubber and then the skinny clamps.

Which one?

[nate220]

Is my latest layout acceptable?

[nate220]

I hope to start the bathroom this weekend. Is the latest layout with the revised red drain lines acceptable?

Also, my questions are

1. I am assuming that tying into the main more than once is acceptable

2. Does the toilet line still need to be 4"

3. I will use an AAV on the toilet to vent it, will the AAV on the sink be enough for the tub to be wet vented or should it have its own AAV.

4. Are there any other issues?