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    Kurt954's Avatar
    Kurt954 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 5, 2010, 05:05 PM
    '93 Honda Civic Cranks but won't start - No Spark
    Was checking the car for a poor idling condition. Removed spark plug wire while engine was running, engine stalled and would not re-start. Replaced coil, ICM, plug wires, and spark plugs with parts from Pepboys - still no spark. After reading some things on here, I replaced the distributor housing with a genuine Honda housing I got new from the dealer. Still no spark. I am getting the 5 volts from the MAP sensor reference voltage. I swapped the ECM with a supposedly good ECM with the same result... Any help is appreciated. I promise I will respond with results. Thank you!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jun 5, 2010, 05:38 PM

    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Test Check Engine Light (CEL). If the CEL does not go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then most Civics will not spark and the fuel pump will not run.

    . Test Power to Distributor. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

    You are likely very close to getting it started. You've done a lot of good things for your Civic--nice job.
    Kurt954's Avatar
    Kurt954 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 6, 2010, 06:53 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    . Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    . Test Check Engine Light (CEL). If the CEL does not go out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then most Civics will not spark and the fuel pump will not run.

    . Test Power to Distributor. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

    You are likely very close to getting it started. You've done a lot of good things for your Civic--nice job.
    All fuses seem OK. The check engine light turns on for 2 seconds and then shuts off along with the fuel pump. I have battery voltage at the BLK/YEL at the 2 pin connector at the distributor... I appreciate your help!

    Kurt
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jun 6, 2010, 08:24 PM

    The car should start. I'm really at a lost to explain why it doesn't. Go over all electrical connections inside the distributor. Clean all connections and ensure the female connectors are tight--crimp with needle nose pliers, if necessary. Verify that the ICM and coil are the correct ones for your Civic. Finally, ensure that the camshaft rotates, when you crank the engine--open the oil cap and look inside. If it doesn't, the timing belt broke.
    Kurt954's Avatar
    Kurt954 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jun 14, 2010, 05:56 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    The car should start. I'm really at a lost to explain why it doesn't. Go over all electrical connections inside the distributor. Clean all connections and ensure the female connectors are tight--crimp with needle nose pliers, if necessary. Verify that the ICM and coil are the correct ones for your Civic. Finally, ensure that the camshaft rotates, when you crank the engine--open the oil cap and look inside. If it doesn't, the timing belt broke.
    Quick question: In the section you wrote "2. Honda Civic Ignition System Troubleshooting (Continued): 5 Basic Tests" you have the following test for the ICM:
    "4. Turn ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no battery voltage, check the ignition coil and the WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM. If there is battery voltage, go to step 5."

    I think I am not reading this correctly. The WHT/BLUE wire has no voltage... Is that OK or do I need to find the cause of no voltage here?
    Kurt954's Avatar
    Kurt954 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jun 14, 2010, 05:58 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    The car should start. I'm really at a lost to explain why it doesn't. Go over all electrical connections inside the distributor. Clean all connections and ensure the female connectors are tight--crimp with needle nose pliers, if necessary. Verify that the ICM and coil are the correct ones for your Civic. Finally, ensure that the camshaft rotates, when you crank the engine--open the oil cap and look inside. If it doesn't, the timing belt broke.
    Sorry - One more thing:
    "5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.

    6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM."

    What should I check for? Broken wire? Voltage? Ohms? Thanks!
    Kurt954's Avatar
    Kurt954 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jul 8, 2010, 03:44 AM
    I took the car to a shop. Turns out the new coil I bought was bad, even though it passed the ohms tests.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Jul 8, 2010, 05:35 AM

    Having a bad new coil is very unusual and fluky. What brand was it? I agree that ohm testing coils is usually insufficient.
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