[Selah]

Hi,

First I'd just like to say that this is the best thing since cheesecake. I'm loving all the information I'm able to obtain through this web site. It's the best.

Two questions:

1. I know this is probably a dumb thought, but I'm going to ask any way. I'm trying to cut corners on my shed and I'm wondering what the damage would be if I put drywall up without insulating the walls first. 1a. Notwithstanding this, I would also like to soundproof it if possible prior to putting up the drywall, what would be the lest expensive way to go?


2. I want to remodel my basement shower which is totally closed in with the exception of the class door. I would like to make the side where the door is all glass and I'm wondering if the wall affixed to the door is a supporting wall. By the way this shower is also directly underneath my first floor bathtub, what should I expect? How can I determine if this is a supporting wall?

3. Oops -cheated--How hard is it to DIY remove and replace the first level bathtub. I have a ranch style home with full basement. And as stated on to the basement shower is directly underneath the upstairs bath. Thanks for all your answers.:rolleyes:

[schwim]

1) Cheapest method of soundproofing would be... insulating :). Honestly, I would not suggest going sans insulation, not only because you want a modicum of soundproofing, but also because hollow walls invite things you don't want(insects, animals, etc.) You can go much further than insulation for soundproofing, but it gets more tedious and expensive as you go. Cheap tips are caulking/taping anywhere a wire or pipe passes through a stud, cap or shoe. You can shape pond lining rubber around all of your electrical and switch boxes, as these are bad spots for sound passing, since no insulation is between it and the other side of the wall. We've gone as far as skinning the whole wall with liner.

Soundproofing gets expensive, but your very first step is insulating.

2) I can't picture what you're asking, but if the shower is directly below your bath, your wall may be transporting your dwv and supply plumbing, so be careful when opening up the wall. As for whether it's a load bearing wall, if it runs parallel to your floor joists, then you should be a-ok to remove it. If it runs perpendicular, then some investigation is necessary. If the floor joists have a joint above the wall, then don't remove it. If the floor joists not supported by the shower wall but right next to it pass by with no need for support, then you're probably OK as well. With something like this, you need to be able to see the joist system, as you don't want to guess incorrectly :)

3) It depends on a lot, but it's never a very simple job. You've got to cut and remove the finished wall to get the tub to come out. Remove the drain and overflow retaining rings, then remove what's holding the tub to the studs. Once you've done that, most times it's easier to cut the tub into pieces if it's glass or plastic. Once you've removed your old tub, you can decide on your replacement. If it's a full tub enclosure, with walls, you can purchase a replacement tub that comes in three or four pieces: the tub, and wall segments. This makes it easier to replace, as often you can't get it into place otherwise in a finished bathroom. Once you've placed it, chances are that you may have to move the drain and overflow, which will require access from below and the other side of the wall that the drain sits at.

There's a lot more to these, but for the amount of detail you put in your post, that's about all I can provide with the information provided.

Also, in the future, it might help you get more answers if you split your questions into separate threads. It's a little daunting to see so many questions requiring a bit of response all wrapped up in one post and may deter people from helping you.

Thanks,
Json

[glavine]

OK sound proofing for the most part is insulation, that's a must, you most likely using 2x4 walls you'll need to use r-13 or -15

as for the shower door wall being load bearing, I wouldn't think so. If you know where your ceiling joist are and which way they run, if the wall your talking about runs the same way , your OK, if not and it run against it, then it may be a load baring wall

id say call a carpenter on that one. Can you do, framing, plumming, eletrical,drywall,trim?