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    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #1

    Jun 4, 2013, 05:38 PM
    Best way to remove thinset from a floor
    We just took the tile up from our bathroom floor. Part plywood, and part Hardi board for the subfloor. Question: What is a good way to remove the old thinset? Not real large, maybe 60 square feet.

    I might add that we intend to use Ditra mat under the next tile install. Anyone have experience with it?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #2

    Jun 6, 2013, 07:50 PM
    I recently found a scraper blade to fit my sawsall at Home Depot. I don't know if it works, in fact I don't know what I did with it, probably in the sawsall box.. I bought it because I like the concept. You might try one of those. If possible I would consider removing and replacing the plywood. Same thing with the Hardi board but you may find thinset between the Hardi board and the sub floor. If the scraper works for the bulk of the thinset, a belt sander would make things smooth again but you will make a lot of concrete dust. Not fun work.

    Let us know how it goes.
    joypulv's Avatar
    joypulv Posts: 21,591, Reputation: 2941
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    #3

    Jun 7, 2013, 02:23 AM
    I have a $45 'multi-tool' based on the original expensive Fein version. It's like a mini Sawzall but the motion is side to side. It comes with an assortment of sharp flat blades that look like paint scrapers. Got it on eBay. Harbor Freight sells them. Good for scraping and also making precise cuts for electrical boxes and cutting into existing trim neatly.
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #4

    Jun 11, 2013, 05:41 PM
    Thanks to both of you. I'll check out the Saws-All blade first.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #5

    Jun 22, 2013, 07:33 PM
    How did the floor job go?
    Sharondev's Avatar
    Sharondev Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jul 3, 2013, 01:28 AM
    There are many tools available to remove.. Or you could try heavy grit sand paper and belt sander or grinder, but you will have dust, might try the demo hammer tool, I think you can get larger blade for them,, but I would sand/grind, deal with the dust.

    Epoxy Flooring Brisbane
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #7

    Jul 3, 2013, 10:18 AM
    Sorry HK. Haven't checked this question in a while. That is kind of my wife's project, and it is on hold for a while as we really don't need that bathroom for a while. I'm thinking of getting it smooth by ADDING a little thinset to it where needed, and then putting a good quality linoleum on it.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #8

    Jul 3, 2013, 05:07 PM
    Every flaw will show through linoleum. 1/4" cement backer board would be good if you can raise the floor that much.
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #9

    Jul 4, 2013, 09:32 AM
    OK. We'll take a look at that. I have considered just pulling up the entire floor (some plywood and some 3/4" cement board) and just replacing it all. We are only talking about 40 or so square feet. But as for right now, I have a SECOND project going on with our living room ceiling and want to get that finished first.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
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    #10

    Jul 5, 2013, 08:18 AM
    I wouldn't install a cement board if installing linoleum, John. I'd rip out the 3/4" cement board (never heard of 3/4" cement board... could that be 1/2"?) and install a 3/4" (or 1/2") sanded and plugged plywood. Prime the wood with a good primer before installing/gluing the linoleum.

    Mark
    jlisenbe's Avatar
    jlisenbe Posts: 5,020, Reputation: 157
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    #11

    Jul 5, 2013, 10:53 AM
    It probably is 1/2". That was about 10 years ago. I assumed it was 3/4 since it is level with the adjacent plywood, but that might be 1/2" as well. Thanks for the advice.

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