[sovadia]

I am remodeling my bathroom. We tore down the walls and floors and replaced with new sheetrock walls, plywood and wonderboard floors. The shower stall has been increased from 36" x 36" to 36" x 42", and since the drain was centered in the 36" x 36" it is now off-center. To accommodate this, I opted to go with the quick-pitch and membrane water proofing kit from Mark E Industries and NobleSeal.

Here is my problem. The drain is a 2 1/2" female threaded iron pipe. The drain I purchased for this system requires a PVC flange that connects to a 2" PVC pipe. If I try to convert the connection, assuming I can find the parts, the resulting position will be a minimum of 1.5" above the 0.25" elevation referred to in the install instructions.

The ideal solution would be an equivalent flange made of metal that screws into the existing pipe and that I can screw down to the appropriate position, but Home Depot and Google are in agreenment that it doesn't exist.

The 2 solutions I'm looking at are:

A) Finding parts to convert the existing connection to a 2" PVC stub and raising the entire shower floor a few inches to accommodate the new height.

B) ripping up the new floor we put down and modifying the pipe.

Email me at [email protected] to see pictures of my shower floor/drain, and the drain that I have for the nobleseal system. Any suggestions would be welcome.

[sovadia]

I figured out how to attach the images...

[massplumber2008]

Can you get access to the pipe from below?

[sovadia]

Thanks so much for the great idea. Access from below was easy as it is in my garage and the water damage from the old drain made it very easy to find.

I cut out the old drain and trap and headed off to get a PVC replacement. It seems the angle on my metal (copper) trap was much tighter than what is available in PVC. Even with only a small nub of PVC pipe exiting the horizontal end to attach to the copper pipe with a rubber gasket, I am out of space before I hit the T that joins to the adjacent drain line.

Do they make PVC traps with tighter bends or is it one standard size? If not, I am thinking I will also need to cut out the copper T and replace that with PVC as well.

The T accepts the 2" copper from my drain, a 1.5" copper from another bathroom shower, and then continues down a 2" copper pipe. Now looking at options to convert that to PVC. I will attach a phot as a reply to this.

[sovadia]

Image attached.

[massplumber2008]

Use a shielded 2" copper x 2" PVC clamp (see image below)... NOT the all rubber/neoprene clamps, and then install the clamp to the copper pipe with a 2" street 90 or a street 45 into it. This "offset" should allow you to put the PTRAP in and turn it back in to align up with the hole... ;)

Give it a shot and see how it works out!

Mark

[sovadia]

Awesome! I really didn't want to cut out that tee. I'm picking up a 45 and a 90 on my next trip as I'm sure whichever I don't get will be the one I need. I'll post a photo as soon as its done. Thank you so much!

[massplumber2008]

A STREET 45 and a STREET 90, OK?

[sovadia]

A STREET 45 and a STREET 90, OK?

Thanks again... it worked out perfectly. Here are the photos:

[sovadia]

Thanks again... it worked out perfectly. Here are the photos:

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