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    Juicii's Avatar
    Juicii Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Feb 26, 2007, 10:05 AM
    92 Civic won't start
    My 92 Civic won't start. I bought it 3 years ago so I'm still trying to learn the specs of it. It's a manual and in the past 6 months my car has been dying on me. First it was my battery, then my starter fell off, then my distributer. Last month I just replaced my distributer but the same issue as arisen again a couple of days ago. I've noticed though that in the few weeks before my car finally died, that my car cranked more than the usual to get it started. Yesterday, I replaced the distributer again, but no success. I checked the battery and the spark plugs, they're still good, but I'm not getting any sparks. I don't know what could be the problem. I'm getting really fustrated. Thanks!
    dw2's Avatar
    dw2 Posts: 4, Reputation: 2
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    #2

    Feb 26, 2007, 10:16 AM
    Does it turn over? If not and you're sure the battery is good, you should probably check the alternator next.

    If it does turn over, but doesn't start, see this article (sections A & B):

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ics-46563.html
    Juicii's Avatar
    Juicii Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Feb 26, 2007, 10:35 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Juicii
    My 92 Civic wont start. In the past 6 months my car has been dieing on me. First it was my battery, then my starter fell off, then my distributer. Last month i just replaced my distributer but the same issue as arisen again. I replaced the distributer again, but no success. I checked the battery and the spark plugs, they're still good. I dont know what could be the problem. I'm getting really fustrated. Thanx!
    The belts are trying to run while I start my car. My car cranks but won't start. I noticed that I have no sparks either.
    dw2's Avatar
    dw2 Posts: 4, Reputation: 2
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    #4

    Feb 26, 2007, 10:56 AM
    In addition to running through the steps txgreasemonkey suggests (in the link above), you might check to make sure your timing belt isn't broken. Open the oil filler cap and watch the lifters while someone turns it over. If you don't have movement, then your timing belt is shot.
    Juicii's Avatar
    Juicii Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Feb 26, 2007, 11:06 AM
    I was just reading over the steps tsgreasemonkey suggests and I'll have to go home after work and give that a shot. I will also check my timing belt. Thanks!
    Juicii's Avatar
    Juicii Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 26, 2007, 01:46 PM
    How much should a multimeter cost? There is a basic general multimeter for $20 that I found. Is that all right?
    dw2's Avatar
    dw2 Posts: 4, Reputation: 2
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    #7

    Feb 26, 2007, 02:06 PM
    Check to make sure it has the resistance ranges you need for your coil check (0.6 to 0.8 ohms & 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms). An audible continuity check is nice for quickly checking fuses, but not required.

    Otherwise it should be fine. You aren't dealing with really high voltages in anything you'll be checking for this.

    Also, don't completely trust the coil check. I've seen coils pass the bench test at the low voltages that the multimeter puts through it and then actually be bad. So, if you get as far as testing it, you might consider just replacing it.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Feb 26, 2007, 02:11 PM
    Even the most basic multimeter will be good enough. Make sure to begin by testing all under-hood and under-dash fuses with the multimeter.

    Here's how to use your multimeter to properly test fuses:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    DW2 gave you some excellent advice. Bench testing coils and igniters does not simulate the heat experienced in real life. If the igniter and coil have not been replaced in the last 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first, then I recommend replacing these problematic components.
    Juicii's Avatar
    Juicii Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Feb 26, 2007, 02:55 PM
    I replaced the whole distributer yesterday including the coil and ignitor and all it does is crank but won't start. I will be picking up a multimeter this afternoon and head towards home to figure things out. Thanks for all the help! While I was reading other forums I've noticed that people have been experiencing problems when it's really wet, cold, and rainy. I live in Oregon and this winter has been very wet, cold, and rainy. We had snow a couple times this year. The first time my car died was when it snowed. Last week while the temperature has dropped dramatically my car died again. Could the weather have done something to my car too?
    Juicii's Avatar
    Juicii Posts: 25, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Feb 27, 2007, 09:11 AM
    It's snowing and raining right now haha perfect weather. :rolleyes: so I bought the multimeter and didn't even use it. Somewhere in my head are blonde roots because I couldn't find the ECU. I connected a loose plug going to the starter and took out the main relay and plugged it back in. I tried to start my car but it didn't work. This time I pressed on the gas peddle ALL the way and my car was alive! So I tried starting my car normally with just the clutch and it didn't work. So I stepped on the gas and started it 2 more times. The next time I did it w/o the gas peddle and it worked fine. My dad came down and asked me to start up again. So I turned it off and tried to start. Didn't work with only clutch so I tried with clutch and gas. Didn't work either. So I waited for a minute or 2 and with just the clutch it started w/o cranking first. Then I tried one last time and it cranked a couple times before it started. This morning I had to use the gas peddle for my car to work. Then I noticed my stereo didn't work and my clock inside my car was REALLY dim. What could be the issue?? :confused:

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