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    Kebsy's Avatar
    Kebsy Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Sep 14, 2011, 09:50 AM
    Electrical open neutral faint light?
    For the past several months, I regularly loose electricity to only ONE outlet (spare bathroom). I keep a rechargeable flashlight plugged in and the recharge light glows red. The bathroom also has a fan, and 2 separate lgihts (all using CFL bulbs).

    Generally in the morning (between 9-11 a.m.), I notice that (a) the recharge light is very, very faint; and (b) the one overhead light is faint. It's a natural daylight, instant on.

    I, too, bought one of those testers. When I have the faint lights, the tester center light is mega faint -- like it's trying to show an open neutral.

    So far, I've spent close to $450 on electricians. Naturally, the outlet has full power when they've been here.

    HELP, please. I'm a senior-ish (aged 59) female, so will appreciate assistance. Thanks very much.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #2

    Sep 14, 2011, 10:56 AM
    If you have 120 volts between the hot and ground, and way less between the hot and Neutral, it IS a neutral problem.
    Hopefully the Electricians Identified which circuit it is in the panel, verify that circuits neutral is Tight, and tighten all neutrals and hots on the breakers, can't hurt.
    Then turn off that circuit and see what all goes out, problem should be in in of those boxes that have no power.
    If that circuit leaves the panel with other circuits, turn all of those circuits off, and the problem could be in any of those boxes that are out.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #3

    Sep 14, 2011, 11:21 AM
    This is not necessarily strictly a neutral issue, can be any connection that is poor or loose causing the low voltage issue.

    It does require an electrician to check each connection in each outlet and junction box beginning at the outlet with the problem back to the panel until the problem connection is found and repaired.
    Kebsy's Avatar
    Kebsy Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Sep 15, 2011, 06:02 AM
    Thanks. Errrm, is "junction box" the same as my circuit breaker box?

    Unfortunately, the 2 electricians only used some electrical "gizmo" to measure readings at both sides of my circuit breaker box and tested a couple of random outlets. Unfortunately, that outlet was working fine when both were at my home. (The vast majority of their charges were the service call (eek) and sittig in their truck writing up the bill. I don't begrudge fees, but $98/hr and $90 service call is rough.)

    Does it make a difference that I am in a 2005 modular? Or, "doublewide".

    Further enlightenment is most appreciated, and thank you in advance.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
    Printers & Electronics Expert
     
    #5

    Sep 15, 2011, 08:27 AM
    A junction box will contain splices.
    A Device box will contain switches or receptacles.
    A cabinet will contain panelboards.

    Question, to the best of your knowledge do any other receptacles or lights go out when this receptacle go down?

    A manufactured home is not the same as a Mobile home. Which do you have?

    Any chance that there is aluminum solid strand wiring in your home or is it copper?

    It certainly sounds as if there is a loose connection either at the receptacle or upstream of it.

    They make a very expensive meter called a Dranet's meter which can be plugged into the failing receptacle and it will record the status of the receptacle over a 24 hour period. You might want to ask your electrician if he has such a meter and can he installed it your home.

    Or you could ask your power company to install such a meter on your meter or panelboard to make sure that the failure is not that you are losing a one side of the panelboard for short periods. I caution you, if you were losing a phase line, multiple circuits within the home would drop out at the same time, not just the bathroom
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #6

    Sep 15, 2011, 11:35 AM
    You need to find an electrician that will take the time to check each connection between the receptacle and the panel to look for and find the problem connection.

    It may take a few hours and you need to be prepared to pay the bill.

    Doing a power recording at the outlet will only confirm what you already know, the outlet does not work all the time.

    I also get that since you're a female looking for help, you have no idea if the wiring is copper or aluminum, which does not matter, there is a loose connection to be found and repaired.

    Unfortunately I do not know how to fix this without hands on, and I do not believe you have the skills or tools required to do the work yourself.

    Perhaps there is a local technical school that teaches electrical work and the students go out to customer locations and do troubleshooting and repairs? Longshot but worth looking into.
    parttime's Avatar
    parttime Posts: 1,440, Reputation: 113
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    #7

    Sep 15, 2011, 12:34 PM
    Tk, good idea with the tech school, I've had body work on my truck done at the school.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #8

    Sep 15, 2011, 02:41 PM
    Kebsy,

    If you are by chance in the Tidewater, Virginia area, send me a PM. I'm intrigued by your problem.

    I've never had the privilege of working on a manufactured home's electrical system.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #9

    Sep 15, 2011, 02:54 PM
    Many of those have Junction Boxes to connect the Halfs. May be underneath or in ceiling?
    Any scuddle holes, may be near it.

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