[sayhighx13]

Fuel pump runs, replaced o2 sensor, check engine light does NOT come on. Spark plugs are sparking, checked distributor- seens fine, main relay? If it was the relay I read the check engine light would come on, but like I stated before it is off.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Postion II), then the problem is distributor related. In most cases, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

[sayhighx13]

I was actually just reading that. Lol kind of ironic. But my only question about ICM is this : My car has never had a problem with overheating. It has always stayed right below half way between hot and cold. I wonder if that would be connected in anyway to the diagnosis??

[sayhighx13]

Also I recently had my o2 sensor replaced with a used part because my car was puttering and the CEL was on. After the fix it ran great. About a week after the fix I ran my car down to E, obviously knowing better not to, but I also live 2 1/2 miles away from a gas station and didn't think it was a problem. It sat for 2 days, as I didn't need to use my car; But when I tried to start it, it turns but does not start. I put gas in (it now has 1/4 tank) and it still will not start. This problem started because of not having gas. But the pump runs, and again it turns over but will not start. People have told me either spark plugs or fuel problem. But I just had a tune-up. (Previously my car was stalling out, took it into shop and they did the tune-up.) I'm at a loss for what the latest problem's solution could be.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Fully pressurize the fuel rail by turning the ignition switch to ON (Position II), until the fuel pump stops running. Then, turn the ignition switch to OFF. Repeat this procedure several more times; then, on the final attempt, turn the ignition switch to START. If the problem persists, focus on replacing the ICM and coil.