[c3bennett]

HELP!My 18 year old son bought a 88 Honda Civic Wagon (4 wheel drive, manual). Vin says it's a 1.6 litre, but it looks like (manifold?) was replaced and says it's a D15B2. Not a mechanic but sounds like it was replaced with a 1.5 litre engine? Anyway, ran for 2 weeks, about a year ago never to run again. Finally made some progress yesterday, but need help. Checked all fuses in drivers side and checked ecu and hazard fuse under hood. Understand Hazard fuse will reset ecu. Husband checked fuel, it's getting fuel and spark. Haven't checked compression yet though. Also bought a new ground wire to install, just in case.

When I go to start, the check engine light will come on, and it sounds like the engine is about to start, but just won't catch. One thing seems kind of curious, to the left of the fuel injector MF there is a little thin level that looks like it has a small eye hole in it, moves up and down rapidly. Don't know what that part is, but looks like maybe something should be threaded through it? IDK? If you have any advice, it would be greatly appreciated! Here's what's been done so far...

1. replaced main relay
2. replaced ecu with used; pm6
3. new fuel pump
4. new spark plugs (old ones had thick gas where engine may have flooded)
5. checked spark on plugs and had yellow spark
6. new battery
7. new air filter
8. mechanic at one point checked distributor and told us it was fine

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Perform tests in the link below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), and you can hear the fuel pump run, focus on the distributor. Don't assume the distributor is good, despite what the mechanic said. It's very likely the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and/or coil may be bad. Here's how to replace them, after running the spark tests, in the example:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

The yellow spark indicates the ICM and/or coil are likely bad. Replace them and I bet the car fires right up. I would also replace the distributor cap and rotor, since high resistance in these items often causes the secondary voltage to destroy the ICM and coil. You could have the car running in an hour.

[suntrana45]

Agree with the "distributor" change out, Honda had a lot of problems with the internal "ignitor" within the distributor, not worth trying to take apart and change, much easier to change out complete distributor. Honda is also notorious for poor solder connections, such as found inside their relays, especially the Main Power Relay, poor solder connections will give you "fits", intermittent operation, won't start, quit while driving, etc...