[miguelangelr]

I have a 1988 Honda Civic DX hatchback with a 1.5liter engine with an automatic transmission. For the past two years I’ve had the problem of the car cranking but not starting. This event happens very randomly but when it does it leaves me stranded for at least 40 minutes. I’ve experienced this problem in both hot and cold weather. I have noticed that when I insert and turn the key to start the car, the yellow “check engine” light goes on. Sometimes if I wait the 3 seconds for the car to make a “click” sound and this yellow light to turn off, then I know the car will start with out a problem. If the yellow light remains lit then the car will crank but not start. When this happens I have to wait for the light to turn off before I can attempt another start. I have also noticed that if I try to start the car when the yellow light is ON then the time that it takes for the light to reset becomes much longer. I know that this is not a low battery problem. The car has actually turned OFF on me twice, on two different occasions, while I was driving on the freeway but miraculously it turned itself back on. I was wondering if I may have a loose ignitor connection but if so, then why would the problem go away on its own, only to come back a few days later.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Your ECM may be failing--I had to replace the ECM on my 1993 Civic 3-1/2 years ago. The Check Engine Light (CEL) staying on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), is frequently a tip-off that the ECM is failing. Before doing anything else, try cleaning the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. When the CEL stays on next time, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Start looking for a deal on an exact part no. match. ECMs are easy to replace:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

The only other possibilities are a failing main relay or ignition switch. The ICM does not affect the CEL staying on, when you turn the ignition switch to ON.

[miguelangelr]

Thank you. The answer is very clear and it seems very easy to accomplish. I will try this tonight.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Great.