[ITSecGuy]

Hello,

I am working in a guest house that has no washer drain where one should be. I have a sink next to where the washer will go, or I have an available drain in the garage that is about 3 feet off the ground (down pipe).

Can I just extend the washer's drain hose (roughly 2 feet) to extend down to either the sink or to the drain in the garage? I estimate that the drain in the garage would be roughly 6 feet from rear of washer.

The hot/cold hook-ups are there, but no washer drain. Any ideas would be appreciated.

The washer is a newer front end loading high capacity. There is no chance of just installing 220 in the garage. Lady is insistent in having this inside.

[KISS]

The sink and the 2' extension is not an issue. Only reccomendation is to put a long pipe (8-10") on the end of the hook so it doesn't get forced out of the tub. Dual tubs are ideal for this, but that doesn't happen much anymore.

Some washers without lint traps tend to shread their lint and this becomes a problem years down the road when the drain needs to be snaked.

Height or head (The distance from the floor is the issue). To low, the washer drains all by itself. To high, it's possible the pump can't pump it. The horizontal distance is less important.
The issue is how much further up (or down) is the drain?

[speedball1]

[Can I just extend the washer's drain hose (roughly 2 feet) to extend down to either the sink or to the drain in the garage? I estimate that the drain in the garage would be roughly 6 feet from rear of washer.

I have no doubtythewasher pump will handle the extra length. And height should be no problem since must of the newer more powerful pumps will pump a 8 foot head. It's the down part of your question that concerns me.
Down from what? The flood rim of the washer. You should install a wsher hose check valve,(see image)on that extra long washer hose(see image) you're going to hafta purcase. Good uck, Tom

[ITSecGuy]

When I say "down pipe" I mean that in the garage, adjacent to the apt, about 6' away from where the back of the washer would be (through dry wall), there is a drain pipe. Its about 6" around, points down into the slab, and comes out of the wall about 3' off the ground - meaning its roughly 3' tall and points straight down.

If I decided to run an extension to this drain, as you quote above, I dont need to worry about horizontal distances that short with a newer washer, but its the vertical height. Well, my guess would be that the washer drain coming out of the back of the washer is 3.5' off the ground. So I would run the hose 6' out, through the dry wall and connect it to that down pipe in the garage. The vertical drop, would only be about 6" over the 6 feet of extension. So, a slow slope downward.

Will this work? Or is it a better idea to just extend it into the sink or to a T fitting, under the sink?

Thanks you guys rock!

L

[speedball1]

Water will see its own level so if the hose is 6" under the water line in the tub at the terminal end it will simply drain out of the tub until it reaches that level. I would like to see the terminal end of that hose at least 8 inches. Can you do that?
I would also like to see a washer hose check valve installed near the washer so all the dirty water left in the hose doesn't drain back on your clean cloths when the pump quits. Good luck, Tom

[ITSecGuy]

That down pipe may be 8" in diameter - I was guessing with 6", but it appears to be a normal sized washer drain. The check valve is a good idea, I'll make sure I do that.

Thanks for your help and I'll chime back if I run into any problems.

L

[KISS]

Also make sure that there is a anti-siphon break. This basically means that you cannot connect the drains using fittings and have it tight.

There must be a space between where the water exits and the drain. This prevents siphoning and/contamination of the domestic water from washer wastewater.