[MarkyMayhem]

Hi! Thanks for all your help in advance ;)

Anyway, a little background.. I've got a 1997 Honda Accord LX coupe with the non-vtec 4 cyl motor. It's got around 170k miles. It just had a new clutch and used tranny put in 2 months ago. When the mechanic did it, he ruined the ending temp sensor and messed up another sensor on the coolant line under the hood, so the car throws a code [forgot which] and the CEL light is on. The car is hard to start when cold because the damaged sensor is caused the computer to go in to closed loop mode with a coolant temp of 180 degrees. Anyway, it's been like that for 2 months and yesterday I was going to go to the mechanic and get the sensor replace.

Also, the ignition switch is wonky, aparently a common problem. Occasionally, the car will just straight up die while driving after hitting a bump or hitting the keys with my knee. The car always starts right back up without even needing to pull over. Also sometimes when I take the key out the car keeps beeping as if the key was still in the ignition and I have to put the key back in the ignition and remove it again to get the beep to stop.

Anyway, here's my problem...

I drove around for work all morning, no problem. I ran in to the bank, cashed a check, and came out to a car that wouldn't start. Or more specifically, it starts and runs for about 1 second and then dies.
I then notice that I don't hear the fuel pump when turning the key to ON.
I check the fuel pump fuse, and replace it for good measure. No start.
Then I pulled the main relay. It smelled like ozone, and some of the solder points on the circuit board appeared to be burned. So I went to the junk yard and pulled 3 separate Accord main relays. I tried them all to no avail, same result.
I then noticed that with the new relay installed, or with pins 5 & 7 jumpered on the harness if I turn the key to START without pushing the clutch, I can hear the fuel pump engage FOR SURE. I even pulled the fuel pump fuse and tried, no sound. Fuse back in, I can hear the pump. But only when they key is turned all the way forward to START, and it runs for a few second and then stops with a relay click if I hold the key forward to START. When I put the key to ON, I can't hear the fuel pump kick in.
I am going to check the MAP sensor harness voltage shortly to test the computer...

And that's where I'm at. My car is behind the bank, and needs to go away by Monday. I am REALLY trying to avoid a tow here.. So any help would be awesome!

I read somewhere that it's likely the ignition starter switch? That's a common problem on this car and when it fails it can cause the symptom of running for 1 second and dying when the key is released from START... I don't want to spend the $50 and the time and trouble if I don't need to though..

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Replace the ignition switch:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
3. Disconnect 5-P connector from under-dash fuse box and 7-P connector from main wire harness.
4. Remove steering column covers.
5. Insert key and turn it to "0".
6. Remove two screws from switch and replace.

[MarkyMayhem]

Thanks Tex... I was hoping you would weigh in on this one, I've been reading your very accurate and concise answers, and to be honest I was really hoping you would answer...

Anyway, update: Due to lack of $$ [gotta pay tax and get new plates this week] I dug in to the wiring harness as per your instructions somewhere and used a DPDT switch rated at 250 volts 25 amps to make a switch to short the white and black/yellow wires in the ignition switch harness together.
Started right up and drove her home...
Then I used a solder gun, some all weather wire nuts, 12 gauge 50 amp rated wire, heat shrink tube, electric tape and some wire ties to install the DPDT switch so that when switched to off it makes both the white and blk/yel wires dead short and when switched to on created continuity between white and blk/yel and also shorts both wires to each other...

Works perfectly!

[MarkyMayhem]

Oops... One more question for next week when I go to replace the switch and wiring harness with new parts:

When I was checking things out I attempted to remove the switch and wiring harness to take inside and attempt repair..

I got everything apart, unscrewed the 2 screws in the ignition starter switch where it attaches to the lock cylinder.
I put the key in and tried to remove the switch with the key in every position, no luck, the switch did not want to come out...
First, what is position 0? Although I tried all positions, knowing the correct one is bound to help...
Also, is there anything special to do after removing the screws? That sucker didn't want to budge..

Thanks!

[MarkyMayhem]

Update: Upon doing some more research, aparently 1997 Accords are the only year with a certain type of ignition switch that has a HUGE connector on the side of the switch [as opposed to just having the wires coming out of the switch]. From what I can tell, removal and replacement of the switch requires punching out the bolts on the ignition column and pulling the whole thing. Another place mentioned breaking the old switch out and then disassembling the new switch to fit it in, putting it back together while ftting it in for assembly...

Any tips?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

They may be confusing replacing the ignition switch vs. replacing the steering lock. Here's what replacing the steering lock entails and you be the judge:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224842

Replacing Honda ignition switches, that I've seen, were straight-forward and followed the steps I first provided.

[MarkyMayhem]

Look at the 1997 Accord switch, if you don't mind... For one year only they switched to a different style, then switched back in '98
It won't come off, and I am attempting to remove only the ignition starter switch.
As I said, aparently [from research and experience] something more than just removing the 2 screws is needed, and from what I read, what is needed is to remove the whole lock cylinder..

[MarkyMayhem]

And from your post, it sounds like the steering lock is what I need to remove to get the switch off...