[massplumber2008]

If it is important enough for you to get toilet bang on 12 or 14" to center then you could always cut into the cast iron stack and install a new sanitary tee fitting... not tooooo much extra work all in all..?

Let me know...

Thanks.

[t56tr]

Oh a local did have a 3x3x2 street sanitary though

[massplumber2008]

I will pretend I didn't read that... :p

:D

[t56tr]

Sorry for the novel I am about to type.

Yea about that san t that I discovered at 5pm today... would need a 90 on that and that would change some stuff as well... plus I already had the mock up of this one going.

Another discovery was that I was a bit off on my wall measurement. We removed an inch of concrete, that was on 1/2 of some type of plaster and all of that was topped with tile. The studs are not perfect and will have to be furred out a bit to get the wall flat.

See the pic below. Its just the Y right in the temp fernco (till the metal one shows up). It puts it about 14.5 off the bsck wall and 15 off the side - good enough for this old house.

Wasn't sure where to point the y (how high up), you need to advise - I just put it off center.

I ran the 2" over to the lav and up the wall to a sant t that reduces to 1.5. I am assuming the 2 will continue up to the vent? If so the current gal vent is still there about a foot away, but its 1.5. Didnt know if that would fly or if I had to do 2 " vent right out the roof.

Finally the 2" sant t (under the lav in the floor) will run to straight down between those joists to the clawtub drain (there is also a vent to the roof there as well but I don't think we are using it from what I remember).

Please let me know what I did wrong or need to change. I do tele-communications cabeling for a living, plumbing is new to me ;)

Note - the bathroom was all concrete, the floors and walls etc, with drywall OVER plaster on the top 3 foot of the walls and ceiling. It weighed an estimated 5-6000 lbs.

The bathroom is above a foyer entry way. The weight of the bathroom over the years sunk in the whole 2nd floor of the house (towords the bathroom), and sagged the whole foyer below into the basement (bowing the beams/girders in the basement).

The reason I am mentioning this is in regards to what angle I need on the closet bend run to the stack. Due to the floor being so tilted I think the original closet bend (the one I cut out) was actually leaning the wrong way a hair (not flowing into the stack).

With the new 3 inch in the fernco just resting there it is about level. Because the fernco has flex/play I can easily give it a ton of flex up... but how much is needed?

That brings me to the next question... I can slip the 3 inch in as far as we want - right now I have a long piece on it... right past the first fernco clamp, or all the way in till the curve on the sanitary t (in the wall stack).

If I need to pull up on it to get a little angle it actually seems better if its in deeper then the first clamp (and not just flexing the middle of the fernco the area between the clamps).

What ever you say though.

Funny thing about the bathroom. When I bought the house the tub would not drain no matter what I tried. Then, we had to jack up the foyer from the basement to do some work, which in return jacked the bathroom and took a little sag out of it. Tub drain flowed great from that day on - ha.

[massplumber2008]

2" vent from the lav. needs to continue to a 2" or larger vent or up and out the roof 2"...to keep all this legal.

The sanitary tee on the horizontal lav. pipe won't work...NO SANITARY TEES on horizontal waste piping...so change this to a WYE and street 45 degree fitting...;)

As suggested, you don't need to connect the tub waste to the old tub vent. You are wet venting the tub through the 2" lavatory vent.

Set the elbow to the toilet level... don't worry about pitch (as long as doesn't pitch AWAY from stack) with only 2 feet of pipe. The 2" drain pitches at 1/4" per foot of piping.

In terms of rolling the fitting above center line... looks fine. As long as it fits under the floor and has the proper pitch you are great!

3" pipe only needs to go in a little past the first clamp. If you want to add a1/2" or so... fine.

Hey... looks great! Keep going and keep me posted.

[t56tr]

Update - just sistering up the floor joists to bring the floor level/flat which has to be done before the final drain pipes get installed/glued up. Also, removed all of the old pressure lines and getting ready to rough in the pex (house has a recent home run set up).

I discovered that the ceiling had been cut open and some repairs had been done to the feed pipes at some point (they cut into the ceiling on the first floor to work on the bathrrom pipes in the 2nd floor bathroom). The house was built in 1930, and all of the piping in it is galvanized.

There are repairs where they patched in copper, but also repairs that look even older where they patched in some heavy brass pipe.

When was brass pipe popular? What years?

[massplumber2008]

I'm not sure it was ever popular, but I have run into it on a few very rare occasions. Maybe Tom (Speedball1) will know more... he's been around a little longer than me... :)

Now tell me how you're going to test this... hmm..?

MARK

[t56tr]

Testing... hmmmm lets see going to have to ask someone ;)

Ill get a pic of the un-glued drainage up soon, and if it gets the nod then well go on to testing.

Two questions in regards to the clawfoot rough in.

It looks like the tub is going to be positioned so that the drain and feeds will be right between two joists.

How will I terminate the pex in that area? I have not ordered the clawfoot faucet/feed set yet, but it looks like it will have two long chorme or brass feed lines that go into the floor with escutcheons. I cannot tel from pics how those chrome or brass feeds terminate or will mate to the pex.

Next, in regards to the trap (which we have already touched on a bit), will it just be a standard 2" pvc trap reduced to the tub drain size with the desanco, correct?

Finally, I have been asking around and cannot get a straight answer on this. If you have a pex manifold with all home runs to each fixture, and each port on the manifold has its own dedicated valve, do you need valves at the fixture anymore?

[t56tr]

Hello, thank you to all that helped with this installation two years ago - Recently, the shower drain has started gurgleing in this installation - this happens only once in a while, but I can tell you it has never done it before. Any ideas what would cause that?