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tuppy · Jan 30, 2009, 10:15 AM

I tried to start my Craftsman snowblower and it won't kick in. When I prime it it runs a few seconds then shuts down. The longer I prime, the longer it runs. Sounds like it is just running gas that I prime. I have electric start. My snowblower is a little over a year old. I used it last year. It has been pretty cold here in Ohio this winter. Could gas line be frozen?

crigby · Jan 30, 2009, 11:34 AM

Hi,
My humble guess would be dirty jetting. What brand engine? Numbers?
Peace,
Clarke

tuppy · Jan 30, 2009, 11:49 AM

Thanks. What do I need to do to get it started then? Engine is Tecumseh Snow King engine. Couldn't locate number on engine. Manual says either LH195SA/LH195SP, LH318SA/LH358SA, OH195SA/OH195SP, or OH318SA/OH358SA. I can fix if simple fix.

Tuppy

crigby · Jan 30, 2009, 01:20 PM

Hi,
That is quite a few possibilities in two engine types, a valve-in-block and an overhead valve.
Spark plug point straight up? Have a HP? They will use three different varieties of carbs.
That mysterious tag could be hidden or it could be in a place where you have to look upwards to see. The numbers you gave are for EPA certification of a family of engines, particularly for four families.
Peace,
Clarke

tuppy · Jan 30, 2009, 04:07 PM

The spark plug is on top (straight up), 5.5 HP engine. Should I take to service people to fix? If so any idea how much it will cost me? Thanks for you help.

Tuppy

crigby · Jan 30, 2009, 06:02 PM

Hi,
There should be what appears to be a bolt with a 1/2" head in the center on the bottom of the carb. Removing it get you to all the main jets(it is them) and possibly a secondary circuit( if it is threaded and then has an area without threads, and then has more threads
If is short, about 1/2" long, it is the main jets and you clean the holes.
If it has two threads portions, look for a tiny hole right above the lower threads drilled at a slant toward the bottom of the piece, this feed the slow speed circuit.
Peace,
Clarke

Larry T · Feb 4, 2009, 10:26 AM

Sometimes, but not always you can simple drain the fuel bowl, gently tap it with a screw driver handle and you sticky needle will open up and allow gas flow. WHen it starts keep it running by pushing the primer every couple of seconds. This sometimes will get things vibrating enough to release things again. Otherwise you will either have to remove the bowl or take it in. Not sure what the cost will be depending on what is found but time is usually the issue. Most shops have piles of customer repairs in line.

Hope this helps.

jsfocke · Feb 4, 2009, 02:56 PM

We have a craftsman snow blower too. We had trouble with it starting and running briefly then shutting down. If you kept pushing the primer button it would keep running until you stopped pushing it. Just by chance we checked the oil and it was a little low. (maybe a half pint) After filling it with oil it ran fine. Possibly it might have a low oil sensor?

tuppy · Feb 13, 2009, 02:54 PM

I finally got my snow thrower started. I syphoned gas out of snow thrower, got new gas at gas station. Plus added stabaliser. Now after it runs I slowly turn choke off, it dies. It will start again, but choke needs to be on high. Any thoughts on how to get this fixed?

crigby · Feb 13, 2009, 07:40 PM

Hi,
I will assume your engine is a Tecumseh, since they "own" te snowthower market. Actually Briggs has taken great strides into this market of recent, but I digress.
What most of the un-informed do not realize is that Tecumseh has a second circuit built into their main jet. If you remove the main jet and see two sets of threads, then you should look for a very small hole at a 45 to 60 degreee angle just above the bottom set of threads. This hole feeds the slow speed circuit. If this circuit is plugged, performance is poor, at best.
Guess what is the best at cleaning it? That wire that holds the inlet needle to the float works great. I actually keep extras around for that. Also, remember that in one of these carbs the pointed end points toward the air cleaner when reassembled. ||CRITICAL|| The float will not operate properly otherwise.
Peace,
Clarke

ck_ck · Jan 28, 2011, 01:31 PM

Check all jets in the carb. Remove the carb. Bowl, you should be getting gas from the tank. If no gas, make sure the float isn't stuck in the up position. The float looks like a small donut. Be careful when moving the float up or down. It hinges on a small pin. But it also regulates the fuel flow into the carb. Bowl. If it is getting fuel, clean any small jets (they look like tiny drilled holes) on the piece that holds the carb. Bowl onto the carb. Body. You can use a paper coated bread twisty (strip the paper off the wire) using the wire as a miny pipe cleaner to clear the jets. The carb is a up draft style and if the jet is cloged it will not run. Also check the bowl gasket for cracks. This may cause the engine to run rough. It sounds like one of the jets or the main jet is cloged. I just rebuilt one. Took the carb. Off and cleaned it on a bench. No special tools required. If you change any carb. Adjustments (flat head screws with a spring) they need to be adjusted while running. Most can be turned in all the way, then backed out 1 1/2 turns. After that try to start and adjust in or out as needed while the engine is running. One more thing, pay attention to the position of the float bowl before you remove it. Mark it with a sharp tool by drawing a line from the carb. Body down to the carb. Bowl. Use this line as a guide when you put the carb. Bowl back on. Most carb. Bowl's have a high and low side to them. If it runs using the primer bulb, its getting spark-air-gas. But the carb is not drawing the gas from the carb. Most likely a clog. If its not getting fuel from the tank, blow air from the fuel line back to the tank. It is cloged at the tank or inline.