[techtimdavis]

I've got a 2008 Chrysler Town and Country Touring Edition with 3.8L V6. I changed the back brakes today, pads, rotors. I had to open the bleeder screws to turn in the caliper pistons with the tool I rented from the parts store. I bled the brakes at all 4 wheels when done, and refilled the brake master cylinder as needed. However, when I start the van I have to pump the brakes in order to stop, rather then just lightly tapping the pedal to get braking. Have I missed a step, or could there be something else wrong with my brake system to cause this weak brake pedal? Also, how do I know whether I need to change the rubber brake hose at the wheel connected to the caliper?

[ma0641]

Try bleeding the brakes again. With an ABS system in your van, you may need a scan tool. Google " bleeding brakes on a _______".Discusses ABS bleeding.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Sounds like you have air in the system. Using a one-man brake bleeder tool, such as a Cal-Van 247, you should easily be able to regain a firm pedal.

I doubt that you need to replace the brake hose, unless you damaged it, because your vehicle is not that old.

[techtimdavis]

I wound up replacing the brake hose on the drivers side rear because it was leaking fluid which I didn't see at first glance. I then bled the brakes again. I get a real firm pedal if the engine is off, but once I start the vehicle it goes back to mush, but the brakes are stopping the vehicle but not as reactively as I'd like. Is there a way to tell for sure if the power brake booster is failing?

Sounds like you have air in the system. Using a one-man brake bleeder tool, such as a Cal-Van 247, you should easily be able to regain a firm pedal.

I doubt that you need to replace the brake hose, unless you damaged it, because your vehicle is not that old.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Always support the caliper after removal, to prevent damaging the brake hose. I use a piece of copper tubing, shaped like a letter "S." You can also use a bungee cord.

Did you tighten the new brake hose with flare or line wrenches? They prevent nut distortion and help ensure a leak-free connection. Did you bleed the brakes in this sequence: RR, LF, LR, and RF? If you weren't experiencing booster problems before, I doubt that that's the problem.

[techtimdavis]

I purchased front pads today, also a vacuum pump bleeder kit, so I hope to get this resolved soon I hope.

Always support the caliper after removal, to prevent damaging the brake hose. I use a piece of copper tubing, shaped like a letter "S." You can also use a bungee cord.

Did you tighten the new brake hose with flare or line wrenches? They prevent nut distortion and help ensure a leak-free connection. Did you bleed the brakes in this sequence: RR, LF, LR, and RF? If you weren't experiencing booster problems before, I doubt that that's the problem.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Make sure you remove and clean the caliper pins and caliper bracket slides; then, lubricate the caliper pins, caliper bracket slides, and brake pad backing plate friction (slide) points with silicone grease. It's best to use premium ceramic pads; e.g., Wagner ThermoQuiet, which come with a lifetime warranty. Ensure that you remove the cap to the master cylinder reservoir, before pressing the piston into the caliper.