[mlbdiy]

I am doing a major mbath remod from a rank amateur position. You have graciously answered my questions along the way – thank you.

I would like to see if I have done my homework correctly.

I have excavated dirt from under the slab in excess of where the concrete was removed to get added room to work.

The picture illustrates the piping sequence for the new shower drain. I want to be sure I do it correctly, and hence have the following questions

1) Is there a minimum amount of pipe from the floor drain to the p trap (seems like I have read 7”)

2) Is there any problem using the 22.5 degree (1/8 turn) coupling to help with fall and direction to the existing line? - I read there should be no 90 after a p trap - is my pictured set up OK?

3) What is the best way to reattach the new wye fitting to the line (2”pvc) the must be cut to insert the wye
a. The shielded coupling – will that rubber/ metal deteriorate once it is buried and cemented over?
b. The repair coupling – have read these are very hard to glue and get into proper position – is that also true in the 2” size?

4) Can I use a sanitary T instead of the wye ( It will give me a bit more room to work)

5) Is it OK that the vent steps down from 2" to 1.5 inch above the (to be capped) sink drain?

[parttime]

Hi mlb, one of the expert plumbers will be along to critique your work. I just wanted to comment on the photographic work, outstanding.

[massplumber2008]

Hi all

1) Not really a minimum length issue here as you need to install the PTRAP and connect it to the shower strainer so don't worry about length here... should be all set.

2) 22.5 degree fitting is fine (correct on no 90).

3) Repair coupling and shielded clamp is perfect and no, the shielded clamp is fine underground!

4) No sanitary tee allowed on the horizontal piping... need to use the combo. Wye that you have.

5) In definitions of wet venting the "wet vent" you are connecting into should be full size 2" (or larger) all the way through the roof. Should you change it over to 2"? Probably, but if you don't I think you'll be just fine in the long run!

Looking good!

Mark

[mlbdiy]

Mark,
Thanks for the generousity of your time.

One point of clarification - when reattaching to the original drain ( after "splicing" in the wye) - should I use
a) the repair coupling ( concern is with a good glue job) or
b) the shielded coupling? (concern was deteriouation with time and no future access)

Or do you suggest somehow using both?

Thanks again you are appreciated

[massplumber2008]

Above ground (and underground), some would use the repair clamp and the shielded clamp, but with the tight space you have there (and inexperience with repair couplings), I'd suggest using two shielded clamps here... will make the job super quick/easy!

The trick here is to put pieces of pipe into the combo. Wye and then install the rubber sleeves onto the pipe and then "flip" the rubbers back on themselves. Slide the SS clamps over the pipe ends in the ground, drop the fitting with flipped sleeves into place, flip the rubber sleeves onto the pipe and slide clamps into place and tighten appropriately. The example below shows a wye fitting and adds a 1/2" extra to be removed from the pipe so the RIB in the clamps can be accounted for.

Make sense?

Mark

[mlbdiy]

Yes thank you

[mlbdiy]

I have (most) every thing dryfit -

Will it be OK if I glue the wye to pipe and then use a section of pipe on one side of the wye with two clamps?

Reason is that the wye is tight on the one side.

If necessary I will remove more concrete to create added space on the other of the wye.

I am not in a hurry - I want to be sure to do it once and do it right.

Thanks for all of your support

[massplumber2008]

If that is how you need to do it, then that should be just fine!

[mlbdiy]

If that is how you need to do it, then that should be just fine!

Thanks for your help!