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Socalstarter · Jul 17, 2013, 04:55 PM

I need to adjust the clutch of my 92 honda accord. Can some one tell me how hard it is??

TxGreaseMonkey · Jul 17, 2013, 05:53 PM

With your hydraulic clutch, there is no real adjustment. Have a friend completely depress the clutch and observe if the release fork moves enough to disengage the clutch. If not, the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave unit is bad. If it's hard to shift, yet the release fork moves a lot, you likely need to install a new clutch set; i.e. clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and release bearing ($100, plus labor). You can see the release fork in the picture to the left, which I took when I replaced the clutch in my Honda 18 months ago.

Socalstarter · Mar 8, 2015, 02:31 AM

Hey tx I replaced the clutch on my 92 honda accord because the release bearing was making a bad noice. After I put the new clutch I put new axles too because they were bad and axle seal. I made everything exactly like the Haynes book says about the clutch installation. I started my car and when engaged to first speed and second there was no problem but when I tried to engage the third and forth speedes was a little bit hard and for the fifth I couldn't do it,and for reverse it did not engage so I purged it more and I adjusted the pedal a lite bit higher and the speeds 1 to 4 and reverse engaged perfect now but fifth was hard to engage and even when I tried to engage it on the freeway it did not engage. What can I do next? Do yo have any idea?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 8, 2015, 05:30 AM

It's common to have to readjust the pedal height, after installing a new clutch. I would check the pedal height adjustment--it may have to be a little higher. What brand clutch kit did you install?g

If the problem persists, you may need to replace the clutch master cylinder, slave unit, and completely bleed the clutch hydraulic system. Check for any leaks on the back side of the master cylinder and inside the boot to the slave unit. Bleeding these systems can be tricky--I use the "push back" method, to get all air out.

Socalstarter · Mar 8, 2015, 11:49 AM

I installed an exedy clutch. I already adjust the pedal height and no leaks on master or slave cylinders or around the whole line I think I need to completely purge the line. What's the best way to do this? I replaced the slave about a year and a half ago. Thanks tx

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 8, 2015, 01:29 PM

Carefully suck out and replace the brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir--only take it down to a safe level. Briefly break loose the 8mm bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, using a 6-point socket or box-end wrench. Slip an 8mm box-end wrench over the bleeder screw, attach the hose from a Cal-Van 247 Economy One-Man Bleeder to the bleeder screw, open the bleeder screw slightly, and pump the clutch pedal with your hand several pumps. Open the cap to the reservoir and make sure the level does not go down too far before refilling it. Repeat this process several times, until you are sure all of the old fluid is purged from the system. Retighten the bleeder screw and check the feel of the pedal. If the pedal is soft or goes to the floor and stays there, purge the air from the system using the "push back" method. To do this, remove the cap to the clutch master cylinder reservoir, unbolt the slave cylinder from the engine block, and push in on the pushrod several times. While you are doing this, a friend should observe air bubbles coming to the surface in the clutch master cylinder reservoir--keep doing this until the bubbles stop. Replace the cap to the reservoir, reinstall the slave cylinder, and check the pedal operation.

I bleed my brakes and clutch every 2 years.

Socalstarter · May 19, 2015, 01:01 PM

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

With your hydraulic clutch, there is no real adjustment. Have a friend completely depress the clutch and observe if the release fork moves enough to disengage the clutch. If not, the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave unit is bad. If it's hard to shift, yet the release fork moves a lot, you likely need to install a new clutch set; i.e. clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and release bearing ($100, plus labor). You can see the release fork in the picture to the left, which I took when I replaced the clutch in my Honda 18 months ago.

Hey text. I have a question. How can I check if the pistons or cylinders are bad in a 06 vw passat? Let me explain you what happened. Car ran out of oil because a broken hose and it ran like that for I don't know how long. They stopped the car, fixed the hose and started the car again. Car ran smooth and everything seems to be good but at the week of that problem the oil light came up so more oil was added thinking there was no oil in the car again. As soon as they added the oil car started but with a big cloud of black smog ( car never stopped by itself) so they ran it and there was no way to go over 40 mph. After few miles running like that the finally died. These is what I have checked so far. Compression which was absent in all the cylinders but number 3 which has only 75 amnd number 2 with 20. I removed the head cylinder and all valves looked to be OK. I sent it to the shop so they are going to tell me if there is something wrong with them. Turbo is broken. I've been turning the crank pulley and it turns easy and smooth and I can see the pistons moving up and down. Do you have an idea if the engine could be death. Thanks for your help.

Originally Posted by Socalstarter

Hey text. I have a question. How can I check if the pistons or cylinders are bad in a 06 vw passat? Let me explain you what happened. Car ran out of oil because a broken hose and it ran like that for I don't know how long. They stopped the car, fixed the hose and started the car again. Car ran smooth and everything seems to be good but at the week of that problem the oil light came up so more oil was added thinking there was no oil in the car again. As soon as they added the oil car started but with a big cloud of black smog ( car never stopped by itself) so they ran it and there was no way to go over 40 mph. After few miles running like that the finally died. These is what I have checked so far. Compression which was absent in all the cylinders but number 3 which has only 75 amnd number 2 with 20. I removed the head cylinder and all valves looked to be OK. I sent it to the shop so they are going to tell me if there is something wrong with them. Turbo is broken. I've been turning the crank pulley and it turns easy and smooth and I can see the pistons moving up and down. Do you have an idea if the engine could be death. Thanks for your help.

Please help

TxGreaseMonkey · May 19, 2015, 06:10 PM

I would likely pass, unless you can get it for a steal and are looking for a major project. If the engine was run without full-synthetic oil meeting VW's specs, the turbo is toast and likely unrepairable. That, alone, will not be cheap to replace. I suspect the rings need to be replaced, along with the camshaft. The camshaft is the last on the oil train and, usually, the first to go, when there is an oil problem. The highest pressures in an engine are on the cam lobes--check them carefully for wear. It's easy to imagine crankshaft journal damage and low oil pressure. I don't want to rain on your parade, but be careful and hold onto your wallet.