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    helpmenow1's Avatar
    helpmenow1 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jul 9, 2012, 03:48 PM
    How to change the shut off valve in kitchen sink
    How can I tell if my shut off valve is partially closed and is restricting the water flow or if the faucet could cause the water flow to be restricted in my kitchen sink?

    Also, how do I change the shut off valve?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #2

    Jul 9, 2012, 05:13 PM
    Hi HMN1

    I'm betting for sure the issue will be at the faucet end here... almost always is nowadays as they have required a low flow on all faucets for years now!

    First thing to check is to remove the faucet aerator (see image) and clean it out... run water without the aerator in place. What is the volume/pressure of the water flow without the aerator in place? Better? If so great!

    If no real improvement when you reinstall the cleaned aerator then next you would check that the shutoffs are fully opened under the sink (open counteclockwise). If these are fully wide open and no improvements then you can disconnect the faucet connectors under the sink and check volume/pressure by directing the connectors into a bucket, or you could disassemble the faucet, too... *UGH*

    Some of the hand-held spray faucets have aerators as well as flow restrictors/vacuum breakers at the hose/spray connectors... sometimes can remove these to improve flow but the practice is frowned upon.

    Anyway, try these things... may get improvement... may not be anything you can do! Start with the aerator and let us know what you find, OK?

    Mark

    PS I would need to know what kind of shutoffs you have in place now... copper, brass (threaded), soldered, etc. to tell you how to install shutoffs.
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    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #3

    Jul 9, 2012, 05:37 PM
    I am with Mark on this one, aerator is a much better bet than a clogged shut off valve.
    helpmenow1's Avatar
    helpmenow1 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jul 12, 2012, 03:20 PM
    Answered myself in error-1st time using this site.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #5

    Jul 12, 2012, 03:32 PM
    Huh? Did our posts help at all? Is that you saying thanks or thanks for nothing?
    helpmenow1's Avatar
    helpmenow1 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jul 12, 2012, 04:08 PM
    Mark,
    Your posts did help. I tried to reply to your answer and actually sent it as an "Answer" to my own question.
    helpmenow1's Avatar
    helpmenow1 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jul 12, 2012, 04:17 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by massplumber2008 View Post
    Huh? Did our posts help at all? Is that you saying thanks or thanks for nothing??
    Yes they did and I'm very thankful that you took the time to send me answer. Apparently I don't know how to use this site correctly. Apologies.

    Don't know if you got my reply so will post again...

    I'm pretty sure it is not the aerator that's causing the low water flow as I have taken it apart with no improvement.
    Every time I have shut off the water using the shut-off valves, my water flow deceases even more. I believe the shut-off valves are threaded galvanized pipe with oval handles(is that possible?? ) not copper or brass. This house was built in 1920 and plumbing added??
    Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge as I really need it. HMN1
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #8

    Jul 12, 2012, 04:36 PM
    I see your post now... ;)

    If you have galvanized piping/shutoffs then yeah, most likely the shutoff/pipe are the issues.

    You can try to mess around with this by starting to disconnect stuff as I indicated in my first post to you... work your way back until you get a good volume/pressure and then install new threaded shutoffs and flexible supply lines.

    I'd check the faucet body next... remove the guts and pulse the shutoffs on/off to clear the lines. If that failed to improve things I'd remove the old shutoffs and connections and see how the shutoff and piping look. Then I would make decisions based on my findings and install all new piping/shutoffs/flexible connectors.

    Be sure to use two pair of pliers/wrenches while working with old plumbing...one to hold against yourself while using the other one to remove the shutoff/pipe.

    Good luck!

    Mark
    helpmenow1's Avatar
    helpmenow1 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jul 12, 2012, 04:44 PM
    Thanks soooooo much Mark-you've been a great help. Sincerely HMN1

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