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    Starchy's Avatar
    Starchy Posts: 48, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #1

    Feb 7, 2012, 01:31 PM
    Minimum wire gauge for portable heater
    My question is about the wire supplied with the heater itself. I have a Clarion 1500W, 110V fan forced small portable heater which was recently pressed into service for temporary heating when our wood stove chimney needed cleaning. The sticker says that it is a 1500W heater with a fan. I noticed that the wire supplied on the heater is 16 gauge, and became quite hot when the heater was in continuous use. 3 questions arise:
    1. Is the overall wattage with fan running 1500W, or does the fan add to the total wattage drawn?
    2. Should I change the wire that plugs into the wall to say, 14 gauge?
    3. Should I be concerned about the very warm to hot wire when it is running, or am I being overly cautious?
    Our house is 10 yrs old with copper wiring, and it was plugged into an outlet with a 15 amp breaker on it, with 14 gauge 3 conductor wire in the walls.
    Thanks,
    gbooy777's Avatar
    gbooy777 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #2

    Feb 7, 2012, 02:02 PM
    Good question. I am not an electrician but a General Contracor. Many on those heaters are meant for intermintant use. NOT continuous use. It's not uncommon for wires to get warm. But if it gets hot to the touch. Don't use it. A larger gauge wire would help with the wire heating up but the unit may still only be set up for 1,2,3... hours of contiuous use. Look up the owner's manual online or call the manufactuer. Better saft than sorry. Lastly, a 20a circuit would be better for a unit with heating coils. They draw a lot. Look at the Dyson heaters. They are efficient and work well.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #3

    Feb 7, 2012, 02:27 PM
    In addition, do not change the cord or plug on the unit, as that will violate the UL listing of the unit.

    Many times the receptacle openings for the plug blades are loose, and the heat created at the plug is transferred through the cord.

    If it is a 2 wire cord, Code allows 13 amps, 1500 watts at 120 volts is 12.5 amps, so manufacturer, let me guess, Made in China, is at minimum, but within Code.

    A dedicated minimum 15 amp circuit is needed.
    Starchy's Avatar
    Starchy Posts: 48, Reputation: 2
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    #4

    Feb 7, 2012, 05:54 PM
    Thanks gbooy777 for your response. The wires heated up within 20 minutes after turning on the heater. Given that the house is wired using electrical code i.e. 14 gauge 3 conductor copper, and a 15 amp breaker for just about every outlet in the house, wouldn't a 20 amp breaker simply allow the wires in the wall allow more amps to flow, and heat them up more? My unprofessional thinking says that the 15 amp breaker would trip sooner than a 20 amp one, if the heater wires heated up too much, and there is no way that I am going to change the house wiring to allow more current to flow, I will simply get rid of this heater and get a better one as you suggested. Maybe I should pull the receptacle out of the box, plug in the heater and check to see if the wiring in the box heats up, or just the wire that feeds the heater itself. If the latter is the case, then to save the perfectly functioning heater, I can change out its wiring for 14 gauge, from its current 16. Thoughts?
    Thanks again.
    Starchy's Avatar
    Starchy Posts: 48, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #5

    Feb 7, 2012, 06:01 PM
    Thanks tkrussell. This heater is made in China, what is not these days. It is also 6 or 7 years old, used sparingly though. If I improve the wire by going 14 gauge, am I not actually making the unit safer? My limited understanding of things electrical leads me to think that bigger wire allows electricity tow with less resistance, and therefore less heat. Is this correct? Also, I will replace the receptacle with a new one just to be safe. Thanks again for your response.
    tkrussell's Avatar
    tkrussell Posts: 9,659, Reputation: 725
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    #6

    Feb 8, 2012, 05:51 AM
    While changing the cord to a larger one may make it safer, you will not be able to leagaly use it, as the unit was tested by Underwriters Laboratories, and sold as is.

    In the event there is a fire, and the investigator finds the modified unit as the cause, you will assume all risk.

    Replace the receptacle with a new one, buy a new heater of better quality, and eliminate any future problems.
    Stratmando's Avatar
    Stratmando Posts: 11,188, Reputation: 508
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    #7

    Feb 8, 2012, 05:58 AM
    The rating of the Insulation is also Important.
    Starchy's Avatar
    Starchy Posts: 48, Reputation: 2
    Junior Member
     
    #8

    Feb 8, 2012, 05:37 PM
    First, I want to say that I really appreciate all of the time taken by so many to respond to my post. It is quite something to have a forum such as this one where a non-professional can come for solutions for day to day problems. Just great! From all of what was written, I think the solution I will follow is to get rid of this heater that scares me, and get a better quality one where the wire does not get hot when in use. There is no way I am going to "improve" the wiring of the unit and then be totally responsible if it causes a fire. For the sake of a new heater? I think not. So thanks again to all.

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