[AZTreeShadeMech]

Ok here's the deal, car doesn't start when its cold(not operating temp) sometimes will sputter, but most of the time just cranks with no firing at all(plugs soaked in fuel), the method I'm using to get it started is,disconnect the fuel injectors and crank it, immediately it sputters, then I reconnect the injectors and it wants to start but doesn't, I have to repeat these 2 steps over and over and eventually it will start BUT I have to open the throttle all the way and it slowly builds rpm and finally will fire up, once it is started it seems to run rough(and will die if I don't keep on the throttle for little bit) till its warmed up, then fine for the most part after that, and as long as it doesn't sit for 6 hours it will start 1st crank mostly(without having to open full throttle). I do have a CEL code reads intake air temp sensor circuit high input? It is the only CEL code I'm getting... I thought maybe it was bad gas but topped off the fuel tank and nothing different, I have full blue spark and obviously plenty of fuel, but I fear its too much fuel the plugs get so soaked after just a couple of cranks, I'm getting desperate and this is why I'm posting my first post ever lol. I'm out of ideas at this point and any pointers or suggestions would be so greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance and I'll keep up to date with results.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the Check Engine Light consistently comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then the problem is likely distributor related. Usually, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM. If the problem persists, install the new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing--all others are unreliable. You may have spark but the timing is off, due to a failing ICM or failing internal distributor sensors (TDC, CKP, or CYL).

You need to fix this soon, since excessive flooding will damage the catalytic converter. Excessive flooding also increases the risk of blowing the exhaust system off when it does start.

[AZTreeShadeMech]

Thank you for answering my question
Just out of curiousity if the ICM and/or coil are failing why does it eventually start and run decent after its warmed up? I have an extra distributor I will change it out with that one. Ill post results thanks!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Ignition problems usually surface when the car is starting. Engines are much more efficient when they are warmed up and gasoline is more easily ignited. Most complaints are the engine cranks but won't start. ICMs are quirky--some exhibit problems upon starting, others exhibit problems when they warm up. I recommend proactively changing ICMs and coils every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. ICMs are electronic points. When problems arise, it affects dwell and saturation in the coil, which affects timing.

[AZTreeShadeMech]

OK TXGreaseMonkey I replaced the ICM and Coil with genuine parts (hitachi & Tec) I am still having the same issue, what should be my next step? Sensors? And also I am not sure if this has anything to do with it but... I am hearing an electronic sounding buzz or humm when the key is on(the pitch changes randomly), it sounds like it's coming from the starter underneath the distibutor, but can't exactly pinpoint where. And just to clear up the CEL when I turn the key on you hear a click CEL on(2 seconds) then click CEL off, then CEL is back on a second later. Thanks for all your input it's greatly appreciated!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It sounds like you replaced the ICM and coil, while the CEL did not come on for 2 seconds and then go out (permanently), when the ignition switch was turned to ON (Position II). The conditionals "if" and "consistently" are very important. Since your CEL comes back on, the ECM may be toast. Perform the K-Test on the ECM, after clearing all codes.

K-Test

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If the ECM passes the K-Test, I suspect the distributor housing is the problem. Then, install your new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing.

[AZTreeShadeMech]

OK so I did the "K-test" and the MAP had 5 volts, so I put the new ICM and Coil in another genuine housing and same result, any other suggestions? Meanwhile I am suspicious of bad fuel still so I am starting the car with my ridiculous way as explained in my first post lol, and I am going to burn off the remaining fuel and top it off with premium fuel once its empty, its going to take a few days and I will use any of your suggestions during that time, I am absolutely determined to get this starting issue resolved. God bless you for all your help so far :D

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Does the CEL come on and then stay off, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II?


Additional Thoughts:

. Remove and fully charge the battery. Most auto parts stores will do this for free. The buzz under the distributor may be the starter solenoid chattering, due to a weak battery.

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Ensure the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under dash fuse box, is good.

. Clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing.

. Loosen the distributor mounting bolts and slightly rotate the distributor CCW to advance the timing, if you did not mark the distributor before replacement. Then, retighten the mounting bolts.

. Check/replace the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, which affects fuel injector pulse width. The ECT Sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor), whose resistance decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. It provides a richer mixture when cold, leaner mixture when hot. They become corroded, due to not changing the coolant frequently enough, flood the engine, and waste a tremendous amount of fuel.

. Check/replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor, if the problem persists.

Don't give up--I think we are now very close to solving the problem!

[AZTreeShadeMech]

Hi TexGreaseMonkey! So thank you for all your help! It turns out the problem was low compression, my compression tester was faulty :( , so I was on a wild goose chase lol, replaced the bottom end and whamo it runs like a champ! Thanks again for all your support, if I ever need any help or pointers again I will defonitely ask here! Take care!