[DIYmama]

My old fill valve was running constantly, so I replaced it with a Fluidmaster 400A Fill Valve. I have metal flanged water supply tubing with a permanently bonded washer at the top, so according to the directions I used the existing washer and existing coupling nut. I had a very difficult time getting the lock nut tightened to the tank, and more difficulty getting the coupling nut tightened. They both leaked until I finally used a channel lock wrench to turn it a bit more than I could by hand. Should I have used thread sealing tape? The directions didn't mention it.

Unfortunately, after I did that, a new leak started from the- I'm not sure what you call it- nut (?) that sits on top of the pipe that comes out of the wall. It's just behind the water supply knob. The narrow, metal flanged pipe comes up from it. I thought about trying to tighten it because it appeared that the whole flanged pipe had been rotated by the coupling nut tightening, but I didn't want to cause any more damage by accident.

Is there anything I can do to fix this?

[massplumber2008]

Hi DIYmom...

Take two pair of pliers and use one to hold the shutoff as you use the other pliers to tighten the PACKING NUT behind the handle. You should only need to turn 1/8th turn or so... not much, just enough to stop the leak... see image.

No teflon needed on the fill valve tubing connection... just tighten past hand tight as you have done and you should be all set.

Let us know how you make out, OK?

Thanks...

Mark

[DIYmama]

I tightened the packing nut 1/8 turn. It continues to leak from the same spot, and then the lock nut started leaking again. I tightened it as much as I could, and it still leaks. Now I have two (possibly three) leaks- lock nut, coupling nut, and packing nut. :(

[massplumber2008]

Does your shutoff and toilet riser look like the shutoff and toilet riser below? If so, try to tighten the packing nut just a bit more. If that fails to fix that leak you can purchase a graphite packing rope (sold at home depot) and repack the packing nut by unscrewing the nut and putting 3 turns or so of the graphite rope behind the nut and around the neck of the stem... install the packing nut into place and tighten reasonably well. If that fails to fix things then you'll probably need a new shutoff installed.

In terms of the other nuts I would tell you to go buy a new BRAIDED HOSE... see image. Determine the length between the shutoff and the toilet nut and purchase a 3/8" compression x 7/8" toilet nut braided supply hose x the length needed or longer. These are super user friendly and should help you to finish the job, OK?

For best result bring the old toilet supply tubing and nuts with you just in case you have a shutoff that is an exception to the normal 3/8" compression fitting needed for most toilets.

Back to you...

Mark

[DIYmama]

Yes, it does look like that. I have tried tightening everything again. All 3 leaks seem to be gone now, or at least so small that there is just a little moisture rather than dripping, but now the spot behind the knob is dripping!

[pande001]

How did you make out. I have the Same problem right now.

[speedball1]

Hi pande001 and Welcome to The Plumbing Page. At AskMeHelpDesk.com.
Where's it leaking from? The connection to the angle stop or the connection under the tank? Back to you, Tom

[pande001]

At this stage it's leaking both at the angle joint (above the turnoff handle) and under the tank, though I had a tight seal under the thank but loosened it up to try to readjust the metal pipe so it wouldn't leak at the angle joint. As I was removing the old tankfill assembly, I bent away the pipe, so now that I've bent it back in position, the leak at the angle joint has appeared.

[speedball1]

Crank down on the angle stop connection. The tank connection sounds like one of two things. You either have cross threaded the connection or you've bent the pipe so the washer no longer matches up. Good luck, Tom

[ma0641]

Metal connector pipes are difficult to reinstall due to different lengths of the flush valve coupling that comes through the tank. I always replace with a flex line.

[speedball1]

I agree with ma0641. You need to purchase a flexible supply such as the one Make put up in a earlier post. Good luck, Tom

[419import]

I have a ? I just replaced one toilet about to do another, my only snag is a very very slow drip from the very bottom under the shutoff handle, it's a yellow rubber looking shutoff valve any remedies? If I go to close the water off again completely it is a lot faster drip you can see

[massplumber2008]

419import

Take a pair of pliers and tighten the packing nut behind the handle a bit... should stop the drip. Be sure to hold the valve body with another pair of pliers while tightening the packing nut... don't need any more hassles here... :)

See post#2 above for a picture of this.

Mark