Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #1

    Jan 7, 2007, 07:41 PM
    1988 Honda Accord PROBLEMS!
    I have a 1988 Honda Accord LXI with high miles. It is a manual transmission fuel injected 2.0l. The problems are: surgeing idle between 1000 and 2000 rpms (happens 50% of time). During warm up when it idles at around 1000 rmps the car shakes like a tank. I can hear something raddleing but I have no idea what it is. And sometimes when I give it gas there is no power going to the car. Could this be a dirty or bad throttle body?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
    		  
    #2

    Jan 7, 2007, 11:49 PM
    Go over the entire electrical system. Make sure spark plugs (only use NGKs), spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor are in great shape. During this process, remove the igniter and coil and have them tested for free at Autozone. It would not be surprised to find out that the igniter is bad. Remember to coat the back of the igniter with silicone grease, before you reinstall it.
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #3

    Jan 14, 2007, 08:37 PM
    When I drive the car going from 0 to 55 it accelerates fine. When I let off the gas a little or try to maintain the same speed I have a loss of power. Like the engine is not getting any fuel. I press the pedal and the car acts as if it is about to cut off. The rpms are real low for the speed I travel at. What could be wrong with the car. I am also stilll working on the idle issue.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
    		  
    #4

    Jan 14, 2007, 08:50 PM
    More than ever, I think your igniter is bad. I would also replace the coil. I don't think you will solve the idle issue, until you replace the igniter and possibly the coil.
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #5

    Jan 16, 2007, 10:59 AM
    I was looking at my fuel injectors the other day and decided to clean the connectors. I started the car and it idled like new. I looked at the injectors and I had left one unplugged. I plugged it in and it started to idle up and down again. I unplugged it and it again idled fine. What could this mean? I when to pepboys, advanced auto, and auto zone to get the coil and igniter checked but they all were unable. I done know where to go. Help! Is there a way I could check it myself?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
    		  
    #6

    Jan 16, 2007, 11:43 AM
    Because of the age of your Accord and the mileage on it, I would just go ahead a replace the igniter and coil. They are already overdue. At least replace the igniter. I'm not a fan of DIY testing of these two components, especially the igniter. Here's what the igniter looks like on your car:

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...Control%20Unit
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #7

    Jan 16, 2007, 09:03 PM
    You were right. I finally got them tested. I am going to replace both.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
    		  
    #8

    Jan 16, 2007, 09:14 PM
    I bet your car runs great, when you replace these items. Keep me posted.
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #9

    Jan 20, 2007, 08:05 AM
    New coil, igniter, ngk wires and plugs, and new fuel injectors. The idle problem is still there. I have have not tested the driving issue yet. I will do that later tonight when I get home from work. I am going to check every single vacuum line for leaks. In case the replaced parts don't fix the driving problem, what do you suggest. My last option is to take it to a shop and get charged out the rear for something that didn't fix the problem...
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #10

    Jan 20, 2007, 08:22 AM
    Oh, I also replaced the dist cap and rotor.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
    		  
    #11

    Jan 20, 2007, 08:29 AM
    Action Plan:

    1. Check for any DTCs.
    2. Run the K-Test on your ECM. The problem may reside with your computer. My experience is that they should be replaced every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. You could install a remanufactured ECM for less money than taking it to a repair shop. Taking it to the shop will be admitting defeat--you don't want to do that. Here's approximately what they cost:

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...ine%20Computer

    Also, check prices on eBay.

    3. Using a large screwdriver or an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope, try and determine where the rattling sound is coming from.
    4. Check all hose connections. This could easily account for it "shaking like a tank."
    5. Check the EGR Valve. This can also be a major culprit in how engines perform and shaking.
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #12

    Jan 23, 2007, 10:20 AM
    What is the fireing order for this car?
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #13

    Jan 30, 2007, 10:38 AM
    I just replaced my fuel pump. The car is all screwed up now. I started the car and 4000rmps is what I say. Then 4 seconds later it starts to idle up and down between 4000 and 1000. Oh my god what is going on. I have a fuel relay on the way and I pray that will help. Would you recommend a new ecu as well?
    hansomdevil00's Avatar
    hansomdevil00 Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
    New Member
    		  
    #14

    Jan 30, 2007, 10:48 AM
    Do you know where I could go to get a computer tested?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
    Uber Member
    		  
    #15

    Jan 30, 2007, 11:11 AM
    Sounds like your igniter is bad. Read the link below and see if it sounds like your situation:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post260436
Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions
 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

1988 Honda Accord Starting Problem... Not Relay [ 4 Answers ]

I have a 1988 Honda Accord LX and recently got a new exhaust system and changed the plugs, wires, distributor cap and air filter. When I was done I went to start it up and it won't run. It starts.. revs insainly high like up to 4000rpms and then dies. If you spray carb cleaner into the main bowl...

1988 Honda Accord LXi turns over but not starting [ 37 Answers ]

Hi there, I have a 5-speed 1988 Honda Accord LXi with pretty high miles, but has been running great for the 8 or so months I've owned it. However, yesterday when I was driving to town it stalled at the stop sign. This stall was kind of out of the blue, because I did not let out the clutch too fast...

Honda accord 2.0i 1988 [ 5 Answers ]

When stationary engine surges between 1000rpm and 1800rpm can anybody advise me as to what's causing this problem does not surge when driven normaly.thanks.

1988 Honda Accord Horn Relay [ 1 Answers ]

Does anyone know whether a 1988 Honda Accord DX 2dr Manual transmission has a horn relay and if so, where is it located. My horn buttons on the steering wheel are working properly and the fuse is good. Can't find the horn relay.:confused: Thanks.

View more questions Search