[delsolster]

I have a 1994 Del Sol Si with a 5 speed
While shifting from first to second, the car stalled and would not restart. There was an intense electrical burning smell in the cabin. Now when I turn the key to the "on" position, the A/C fan starts, though I do not have the A/C switch or interior fans on.
Tests done and results:
Battery voltage - fine
No spark observed from first wire
Distributor rotor turns
Points are fine
ICM voltage recorded between blk/yel and ground and between wht/blu and ground
Coil A-B ~ 2 ohms; A-secondary ~ 15k ohms

According to the tests above, it lead me to think it was the ICM. Those leads were also brown and tacky like they were burnt. However a faulty ICM does not account for the A/C fan being on. I tested the A/C fan relay for voltage and continuity - which were fine.I also switched with a good relay and the fan still ran in the "on" position.

I then read somewhere on this forum something about a "k-test". I took off the MAP plug and measured the voltage from the white wire to ground and measured 0.15V instead of 5.0V.

If I did this correctly, I am assuming it means the ECM is dead. The ECM is pretty expensive (~$500), so I want to make sure that is the problem before simply going out and making a purchase. Is there another way to check the ECM to make certain it is really the problem? If I take it out of the passenger compartment, is there any test I can perform on the unit itself? Is it possible that my ICM is fine and that the testing was a result of the ECM?

Any thoughts or comments would be most appreciated.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The burning smell is likely from the ECM. Remove it from the car, unfasten the cover, and you will likely see prima facie evidence that it has failed--very common on older Hondas. It should corroborate the K-Test. Here's how to replace the ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

[delsolster]

Thank you for the quick response. The ECM was indeed bad. That was where the smell originated. There was a hole burned through the circuit board. I just ordered a replacement.

[delsolster]

I replaced the ECM today. The car still won't start. I ran the K-test and observe 5 volts now. Before heading down the road of the ECM, I thought the ICM or coil were bad. However, both are now testing within the limits described in the Helms Honda book. I still do not have a spark. Any further suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Bench testing these components is almost useless. If the problem persists, install your new ICM and coil in a genuine Honda distributor housing. Aftermarket housings are junk.

The example, in the link below, may help provide perspective and understanding:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post229012

[delsolster]

1994 Honda Del Sol Si; 5 speed manual transmission; purchased used several months ago so I don't know its history.

The CEL came on and stayed on. Car turns over but won't start. Fuel pump will not prime. The A/C fan would run whenever key turned to the "on" (not start) position. Performed voltage test on ECM - it failed and the ECM was replaced. Still wouldn't start, though the A/C fan was no longer running and the voltage ECM test now passes. The Alt fuse seemed fine, though it was replaced anyway. The main relay was replaced and the ignition switch pathways all checked out with continuity. The main relay was jumped and the fuel pump worked fine. I am running out of ideas. Is there a way to test the main relay to determine if it is bad? There are 7 prongs on the main relay. The Honda Helms book describes a way to test the 4 prong relays.

There is also some sort of contraption (black box) under the dash with different wires attached to it. One of them goes from the ignition switch to the box. There is also a red neon bulb and small switch attached to the under side of the steering column. I have tried the switch in both positions. I also played with the switch when the car was not having any problems, and I couldn't figure out what its function was. I can't rind anything about it online and there is little info on the device itself. It has a S/N: 040000400045 A08 and there is mention of the FCC in regards to interference and lists a FCC ID: ELVAR5E.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. - Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

The problem may be due to an aftermarket security system, which needs to be removed.

[delsolster]

I don't understand your response. I am still observing the CEL on and the fuel pump is not priming. I also tested the ICM and coil and both are fine. I added another post describing my current state of affairs. Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If the CEL does not go out (i.e. stays on), most Civics will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should first be directed to correcting this problem. Ensure an aftermarket security system is not interferring with the ignition system.

If the CEL stays on, after verifying a security system is not involved, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); main relay; or the ignition switch. Perform tests in that order.

[delsolster]

Dear TxGreaseMonkey:

Thank you very much for your assistance. I was getting really frustrated and then I went back to one of your topic lists.

The car now starts and runs fine. Looking back at the chain of events, I replaced the ECM and thought that was the main problem. After connecting the new ECM, I again tried to start the car to no avail. Without knowing it, that start attempt blew the 15A main relay fuse in the engine bay. I hadn't bothered checking the fuses again because I already checked all of them before replacing the ECM. I then connected a new main relay which due to the blown fuse still would not start. Today I looked again at the fuses and observed the blown one. After replacing it, the car started up fine. As a side note, the car alarm was not part of the problem at all.