[pinch]

My car is a 1999 acura 1.6el

OK guys I am really frustrated with this and don't know what else to do. So I pulled the motor(d16y8 out of my 1.6el and replaced it with another d16y8 with less km's. Went to start it and it cranks but it won't start. There is no spark and the fuel pump doesn't turn on. What I have tried to far:

-battery tested good.
-checked grounds(cleaned and replaced 3 grounds, tranny to frame, wiring harness to thermostat housing, power steering bracket to rad support)
- checked fuses #13, 44, 31, 47-all are good
- tested main relay-its fine
- hooked 12volts directly to fuel pump and it turned on
- pulled plugs and testing for spark- NO spark
- I also tried a different ecu a p28 with a conversion harness just to see if anything would happen and still the same so I don't think the ecu is fried
- tried a different security module - still nothing.
- fuel pump does not turn on or "whine" when key is turned to second poistion
I also noticed that I can lock and unlock the doors with the remote but when I lock it I can open the door and the alarm won't sound, alarm will only sound with the panic button
- also the blinking security light is not on at all.
- replaced every fuse under the dash and under the hood
- new crank position sensor
- new ignition control module and coil
- added a forth ground


What I noticed is that when I turn the key to the second position is that the CEL light will NOT light up. The battery, oil ebrake and abs lights all come on. So what I am thinking is that the ecu is no getting power. I also hooked up and OBD2 code reader and it will NOT detect my car.

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[TxGreaseMonkey]

See if this link helps:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post291477

[pinch]

See if this link helps:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post291477

How do I perform the "K" test if I have an odb2b car? It says to remove the "D" connector from my ecm but my ecm does not have a "D" connnector. I am assuming that I remove the "C" connector because the "C" connector has the pin for the MAP sensor on my ecm. Please correct me if I am wrong.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Just take the measurement at the MAP Sensor connector. Skip messing with the ECM connectors.

[pinch]

All right I tested the MAP connector. I got a reading of 0.5volts. I swaped in a known working ecm and still the same reading.

[pinch]

Also the main relay is not clicking when the ignition is turned on. I tested the main relay and it tested fine I also swapped it out with another relay and it still isn't clicking when the ignition is turned on.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I question how good the "known working" ECM is. I believe that's your problem. It makes no sense that the reference voltage is .5 volts, if it's really any good.

[pinch]

The ecm came out of a friends running car.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Honestly, that means little to me. I've seen plenty of cars that will intermittently work with K-Test readings as low as .3 volts. Be sure to keep me posted with what the final solution is.