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    brj5454's Avatar
    brj5454 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Aug 27, 2009, 11:24 AM
    92 civic primary relay energizing delay
    I am having problems with a primary relay on a 1992 honda civic. I have replaced the relay after the first round of diagnostics. I am still having a problem

    When the enterior of the car is hot you must open it up and let it cool before the relay will receive electricity and make its first " click"

    When the car is cool, you turn on the ignition, the CEL stays on from 10 sec to a minute, then you here the primary relay click, the fuel pump run and the CEL goes off. Presto it starts.

    Here is what I have checked so far.

    All fuses are good
    When the #5 and #7 pin are jumped the fuel pump runs
    I replaced the primary relay.. no change in problem
    Jumped the 2p service connector- no diagnostic trouble code stored
    Diconnected blue tach wire from ignitor, no change
    Oh yah... it it has a NEW complete distributor assembly.. no change
    I cleaned and greased the ECM ground on the thermastat housing and the main ground between the front grill area and the valve cover.

    50* morning.. turn the ingnition on, wait SEVERAL SECONDS they main relay enrgizes
    " click" then the secondary relay in the main relay activates and the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds,CEL goes off and the car will start.
    If the car is hot inside you must first let it cool for a few min before this process takes place
    Once you have got it started it will work like it should, turn the key, relays energize and CEL goes out after 2 seconds, car starts.

    ANY IDEAS?? I am thinking ECM but I also thought Main Relay and Distributor... $300.00 dollars ago
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Aug 27, 2009, 12:37 PM

    ECM is starting to fail. Perform the K-Test.
    brj5454's Avatar
    brj5454 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Aug 27, 2009, 12:59 PM

    I actually used your diagnostic guides... Can you explain the K-test please
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Aug 27, 2009, 01:01 PM

    The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.
    brj5454's Avatar
    brj5454 Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Aug 27, 2009, 01:20 PM

    The ecm ground is the wires I cleaned and greased by the thermostat housing right ? This is what I use for the ground probe on multimeter.

    Is the MAP sensor on the firewall? Where am I looking to place the positive probe on the MAP sensor?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Aug 27, 2009, 01:27 PM

    Along the firewall, just to the right of the battery.

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