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timalpinehr · Oct 9, 2006, 05:48 PM

How can I determine if I have a bad fuel solenoid on my mower. Mower turns over great but will not start. Had fuel dump into the oil - changed it and dried out the valve cover and spark plug. Disconnected the kill wire on the coil. Gets spark when tested plug on head. Any other suggestions?

thebriggsdude · Oct 9, 2006, 08:43 PM

If it was bad, you would get fuel to the carb... but it won't run.. and of course they always will make a faint click when you turn the key, if they are working...

If its getting gas to the carb, carb is cleaned good (main jet, etc.) and gas down the carb makes it run... then yes it sounds like the solenoid.

timalpinehr · Oct 10, 2006, 05:57 AM

I have used starter fluid but still will not start. After having fuel in the oil I did not want to dump fuel in carb. It is a new engine (short block) with old head and old carb. Cleaned carb out with cleaner. There is a click when turn key. If I unplug fuel solenoid it cranks about the same as when its plugged in. It seems to be pushing a lot of compression out of the carb when air cleaner is off.

thebriggsdude · Oct 10, 2006, 08:47 PM

Did it start before this happened... you said new shortblock... so was it just rebuilt?

timalpinehr · Oct 11, 2006, 06:45 AM

It is a brand new short block and no it has not started since it has been put together.

thebriggsdude · Oct 11, 2006, 10:17 PM

Ahhh, did you do this yourself or have a shop do it? Sounds out of time to me..

timalpinehr · Oct 12, 2006, 05:03 AM

I did it myself. How can I check the timing?

thebriggsdude · Oct 12, 2006, 06:40 AM

They are simple.. line the dots up on the cam and crank... to line them up takes a while, have to turn it to put it in, and turn it back to the marks to see if they line up.
And then its just the flywheel key.

timalpinehr · Oct 12, 2006, 07:09 AM

Originally Posted by thebriggsdude

They are simple....., line the dots up on the cam and crank..... to line them up takes a while, have to turn it to put it in, and turn it back to the marks to see if they line up.
and then its just the flywheel key.

The block was already assembled when I purchased it (ie cam and crank should have been properly lined up?) and the fly wheel does have the pin in it (only one way to mount it). Is there any specific position that the was needed prior to mounting the head (installing push rods... ) to the block?

thebriggsdude · Oct 12, 2006, 06:23 PM

The piston should have been 1/4" below top dead center (after it has reached tdc)... when doing the valves...

And yes there is a line, and a dot... which must line up on the crank and cam.

timalpinehr · Oct 17, 2006, 04:23 PM

Thanks for your help biggsdude - I know I am getting closer. I removed the head and positioned piston 1/4 inch below tdc on the down stroke. Reassembled the head and installed the push rods. The engine started briefly but the valves were very loud. I moved the fly wheel by hand and at one point in a full turn it is very hard to move (The starter is struggling to make it turn). I knew I would need to make a valve adjustment once it would start but I thought it would run better than it sounded. Is there an easy method to adjust the valves? The rocker arm has play in it over the spring for the valve and I thought it should be tighter.

thebriggsdude · Oct 17, 2006, 04:54 PM

http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faq...ted=1101860144