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    Jasonthemasonkcch's Avatar
    Jasonthemasonkcch Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 8, 2006, 07:59 PM
    I can't seem to find any directions on how to install a 3 piece drain kit. The drain pipe and drain kit are both ABS. It will go in for a second floor shower. It looks like it should just be cemented on top of the 2 inch pipe that's already there. I need to know if it needs to rest on the subfloor. Please let me know if you need more information. Thanks in advance for your help.

    I found the exact part here: http://www.plumbest.com/ce9.php
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #2

    Oct 8, 2006, 08:36 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasonthemasonkcch
    I found the exact part here: http://www.plumbest.com/ce9.php
    This is what is known as a 'mud-set drain' -- It is typically used in a tiled shower enclosure -- The bottom part of the larger upper rounded portion is meant to sit flush with the top of the sub-floor, which prevents cracking of both the tile grout and shower pan membrane when stepped on during normal usage. The tile-setter will typically dial the drain-shoe up or down to meet the finished floor height of the shower pan.

    You will probably need to use a jig-saw to cut the sub-floor around the castings for the clamping rings bolts.

    I usually start with a 5" hole saw, and then expand the hole as much as is needed with a jig-saw.
    Jasonthemasonkcch's Avatar
    Jasonthemasonkcch Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Oct 8, 2006, 11:33 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by iamgrowler
    This is what is known as a 'mud-set drain' -- It is typically used in a tiled shower enclosure -- The bottom part of the larger upper rounded portion is meant to sit flush with the top of the sub-floor, which prevents cracking of both the tile grout and shower pan membrane when stepped on during normal usage. The tile-setter will typically dial the drain-shoe up or down to meet the finished floor height of the shower pan.

    You will probably need to use a jig-saw to cut the sub-floor around the castings for the clamping rings bolts.

    I usually start out with a 5" hole saw, and then expand the hole as much as is needed with a jig-saw.
    Thanks for the response :) This will be installed for a shower kit, but I don't suppose that will make much difference in how it's installed...

    If I understand correctly, when you refer to the "larger upper rounded portion is meant to sit flush with the top of the sub-floor", that the whole unit sits on the sufloor (attached to the pipe of course), with approximately 1/2 inch of the bottom assembly left showing. Then the drain-shoe will screw into that and be adjusted as needed.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #4

    Oct 9, 2006, 05:40 AM
    I've drawn an arrow to show which part of the drain assembly should be flush with the top of the subfloor.
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    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #5

    Oct 9, 2006, 07:07 AM
    "If I understand correctly, when you refer to the "larger upper rounded portion is meant to sit flush with the top of the sub-floor", that the whole unit sits on the sufloor (attached to the pipe of course), with approximately 1/2 inch of the bottom assembly left showing. Then the drain-shoe will screw into that and be adjusted as needed."

    What Growler calls a" mud set drain" in his area we call a "flange type shower drain" in mine. The botton section will set on the sub floor, the shower pan installed over that and the top part will clamp down over the plastc pan. The drain itself can then be adjusted for the slope of the floor by the tile man. Good luk, Tom
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