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SNICKERLV · Mar 5, 2009, 02:17 PM

Hi there!
I was reading many posts with others owners who have Honda civic,
But figured out to write my own post.

About car - Honda CIVIC 1998.year
Motor code D15Z6 1.5i LS v-tec
Sedan (it's some kind of european variant)

Problems - cranks but won't fire up

Checked - injectores all are 10-13 ohms

Replaced - ignition coil, (ICM) ignition control module, ignition switch wiring harness,

Thought about replacing main relay, but I hear all the clicks, and I hear fuel pump whirling...

And the funny thing is that the check engine light (MIL) comes out as usually starting car.

Change ECM?( a loooot :( of money, maybe MAP sensor?)

Any IDEAS? :confused:

Will apprecciate...

SNICKERLV · Mar 5, 2009, 03:07 PM

I did not found the EDIT button

Problems - cranks but won't fire up

Sorry for my English but the problem is that car starts then it dies!

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 5, 2009, 06:12 PM

. Test all underdash and underhood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for codes.

. If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only), since the internal CKP, CYL, or TDC sensor may be damaged. Be sure to install your new ICM and coil.

SNICKERLV · Mar 6, 2009, 09:07 AM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

. Test all underdash and underhood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

. Check for codes.

. If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off after two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), replace the distributor housing (genuine Honda only), since the internal CKP, CYL, or TDC sensor may be damaged. Be sure to install your new ICM and coil.

1)Tested all fuses with multimeter, some of them were dead, but installing new ones, still no result...

When I try to measure volts without fuse it's is -0.01 volts... ( do not understand clearly.. )

2) checked for error codes. No codes were displayed...

The check engine light (MIL), goes after 2 seconds, whrn the click is heard from the main relay...

I do not understand how replacing distributor housing it will help? :confused: :(

How can I check what is wrong? Or broken?

Thanks for help...

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 6, 2009, 09:37 AM

Does the CEL go off after 2 seconds?

SNICKERLV · Mar 6, 2009, 10:16 AM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

Does the CEL go off after 2 seconds?

Yes it goes off after 2 seconds... :)

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 6, 2009, 10:45 AM

There's no real way to test these internal distributor sensors. When they go bad, my experience is that sometimes they throw codes and sometimes they don't. If all fuses are good, CEL comes on and goes off normally, ICM and coil are good, you have spark and fuel, but the engine doesn't stay running, the distributor housing needs replacing (genuine Honda only). This has been my experience.

SNICKERLV · Mar 6, 2009, 10:59 AM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

There's no real way to test these internal distributor sensors. When they go bad, my experience is that sometimes they throw codes and sometimes they don't. If all fuses are good, CEL comes on and goes off normally, ICM and coil are good, you have spark and fuel, but the engine doesn't stay running, the distributor housing needs replacing (genuine Honda only). This has been my experience.

I need to get sure, housing means the multi plug wires with 3 some kind of magnets? OR the aluminium case?

And where can I order it?

Anyway thanks for your time and help... will try to replace them, if nothing will change that's OK I ' am already used, that I can start the car, but for a second (joking) :D

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 6, 2009, 11:11 AM

The housing includes everything, except the distributor cap, rotor, ICM, and coil. Just go to your local Honda parts department or search on line for the best deal. Install all of the items listed above in the new housing.

This should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

SNICKERLV · Mar 6, 2009, 11:20 AM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

The housing includes everything, except the distributor cap, rotor, ICM, and coil. Just go to your local Honda parts department or search on line for the best deal. Install all of the items listed above in the new housing.

This should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post288473

BIG THANKS! Will try to read und learn...

SNICKERLV · Mar 7, 2009, 10:35 AM

I think I found the problem!!

Today removed IAC(idle air control) valve, and spray in it carburator cleaner..

Then restarted the car it started, but very poor idling almost at 0 rpm, when I hit the gas pedal stalled/stoped. And I hear that air intake system does not suck in more air when accelerating...

And then sudenly after 1-3 minutes the rpm hits 1000-1500, but it has erratic idling...

Car starts normal when it is warm, but after 2-4hours car starts the same:
1)poor idling almost 0 rpm
2)sucks no air when accelerating
3) after 1-3 minutes starts idling at 1000-1500rpm
4)and has errating idling

Then what should I do? Clean the IAC valve more or just replace it, and why it have problem when cold?

Can you help me please?

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 7, 2009, 10:52 AM

This may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1054149

Also, clean throttle plate and throttle body.

SNICKERLV · Mar 7, 2009, 11:08 AM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

This may help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1054149

Also, clean throttle plate and throttle body.

Thank's again you're the MAN!

TxGreaseMonkey · Mar 7, 2009, 11:33 AM

. Replace fuel filter, if it hasn't been replaced in the last 60,000 miles or 4 years:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224689

. Replace air filter, if it hasn't been done in 24,000 miles or 2 years.

. Replace spark plugs (NGK only) with the exact ones that came with the car.

. Ensure spark plug wires are fully seated in the distributor cap.

SNICKERLV · Mar 7, 2009, 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

. Replace fuel filter, if it hasn't been replaced in the last 60,000 miles or 4 years:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224689

. Replace air filter, if it hasn't been done in 24,000 miles or 2 years.

. Replace spark plugs (NGK only) with the exact ones that came with the car.

. Ensure spark plug wires are fully seated in the distributor cap.

Air filter changed aproximetly 20 miles ago, will do it again

Also changed fuel filter 15 miles ago

Spark plugs already installed, brand new, original equipment - DENSO KJ16CR-L11 (1,1mm)

Checked spark plug wires resistance with ohm meter and are they (seated) although

Checked...

Tomorrow will try to clean roughly the IAC valve that's all...

I think just the engine doesn't have air... and the valve do not work correctly

Also will measure IAC valve multi plug wire resistance with ohm meter

And maybe will try to bridge ECM harness multi plug terminals A10 and A12 to hear IAC valve to operate..

SNICKERLV · Mar 9, 2009, 05:58 AM

Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey

There's no real way to test these internal distributor sensors. When they go bad, my experience is that sometimes they throw codes and sometimes they don't. If all fuses are good, CEL comes on and goes off normally, ICM and coil are good, you have spark and fuel, but the engine doesn't stay running, the distributor housing needs replacing (genuine Honda only). This has been my experience.

Hi again, You said that' there is no real way to test CKP, CYL, or TDC internal distributor , but

I found how to check internal CKP sensor!! :)

That's alll... :rolleyes:

Don't now why isn't shoving picture here is direct link for picture http://foto.inbox.lv/liepinselvijs/S...CKP-sensor.jpg