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burgerbeatz · Mar 2, 2009, 12:08 PM

I keep getting an error 34 when I try to start my weathermaker 8000, I think the problem is low inlet gas pressure because the gas comes on after the click. I gently fanned the gas towards the igniter and it worked. If I don't do this it cuts off after four tries with out igniting. Like a said, when I fanned it a little it worked, so I know the gas and igniter are working fine. Is there a way to increase the pressure a bit? I know its not the flame sensor because once it lites, it keeps going. It won't light up again with out a little fanning to push the gas towards the ignition.

KC13 · Mar 2, 2009, 03:13 PM

Natural gas or LP? In addition to your initial suspicion, it could be a problem with dirt build-up in the main burners. Will it ignite on its own with the burner box open, without "fanning" the area? If so, you may have a leaky ignitor gasket, creating an "air curtain" effect and spoiling the gas stream.

burgerbeatz · Mar 3, 2009, 07:33 AM

Originally Posted by KC13

Natural gas or LP? In addition to your initial suspicion, it could be a problem with dirt build-up in the main burners. Will it ignite on its own with the burner box open, without "fanning" the area? If so, you may have a leaky ignitor gasket, creating an "air curtain" effect and spoiling the gas stream.

I have a natural gas furnace. It won't light on its own at all and the main burners are clean. I'm not sure what the burner box would be, but it won't light at all now. I can smell and hear the gas come on but it doesn't ignite. I think your air curtain explanation is closer to what may be wrong. Where could I get a new igniter gasket?

KC13 · Mar 3, 2009, 08:39 PM

If I'm not mistaken, you have a sealed combustion condensing furnace, right? Are the burners inside a sealed enclosure with a direct vent to the outdoors? If so, my suggestion was to test ignition with the front cover removed from this enclosure. I have encountered a few cases of sealed combustion units with leaky ignitor gaskets, and removing the cover stopped the "air curtain" effect and allowed ignition. If you continue to experience this problem with the cover removed, the problem lies elsewhere...

burgerbeatz · Mar 6, 2009, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by KC13

If I'm not mistaken, you have a sealed combustion condensing furnace, right? Are the burners inside a sealed enclosure with a direct vent to the outdoors? If so, my suggestion was to test ignition with the front cover removed from this enclosure. I have encountered a few cases of sealed combustion units with leaky ignitor gaskets, and removing the cover stopped the "air curtain" effect and allowed ignition. If you continue to experience this problem with the cover removed, the problem lies elsewhere...

The burners are not enclosed... If the stack has a blockage, could that keep it from igniting; to prevent carbon monoxide from leaking.

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 6, 2009, 05:34 PM

Judging from what you have said, I would definitely check gas pressures. Do not just start adjusting them, they need to be checked(both inlet and manifold side) with a monometer. If you don't have a monometer, and or don't know how to check the pressures, you really should call in a pro to look at this situation. Good luck and please let us know what is found.

Also, once you fan the burner area and the burner lights, what does the flame look like?

burgerbeatz · Mar 6, 2009, 07:51 PM

Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77

Judging from what you have said, i would definately check gas pressures. Do not just start adjusting them, they need to be checked(both inlet and manifold side) with a monometer. If you dont have a monometer, and or dont know how to check the pressures, you really should call in a pro to look at this situation. Good luck and please let us know what is found.

Also, once you fan the burner area and the burner lights, what does the flame look like?

The flames looks normal after I fan it, typical blue flame, but sometimes only 3 burners light. It won't light at all now. Do you know what the going rate would be to have a pro check the pressure? One guy offered to fix it for $500! That has to be overpriced.

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 8, 2009, 10:07 AM

All depends on location and going rate. That is definitely over priced for just checking pressures. However, if pressure isn't the problem, then it may get expensive.

Checking and adjusting pressures shouldn't take more than 5-10 minutes. (for a pro). But you would be charged from the time they left their shop till the time they get back to their shop.

cdrake · Dec 27, 2011, 01:42 AM

I have a Carrier Weathermaker 8000 model 58TUA12016 with similar problem. About 60% of the time it starts a new cycle, only the first burner lights; the other 5 burners to the left will start if I blow across them starting from the lite burner, right to left. Low gas pressure or partially blocked flue make sense to me as possible culprits.. Agree?