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clawed · Jan 14, 2009, 06:27 AM

I looked through the threads on this subject and tried some of the fixes, including snaking with a Rigid AutoSpin 1/4" power auger. Bit I need some additional guidance.

My washing machine drain hose hooks over a 2 in. diameter PVC standpipe, which is about 4.5 ft up from the floor. The hose is not sealed to the pipe. The standpipe has a trap and vent, both of which are easily accessible (the vent is in the closet with the washing machine - there is no roof vent). The vent is about 5.5 ft off the floor. It has a removeable cap which covers a spring loaded plunger.

There is a rubber coupling near the floor that allows me to remove the entire standpipe/trap/vent assembly. I removed it and snaked the drain for 30 ft. Some hairy goop came out and this seemed to help a little with drainage, but it still backed up when we ran the spin cycle. In fact, suds backed all the way up the vent pipe and out the vent.

Is it possible that the vent is not venting properly?

Looking forward to your insight...

Thanks,

CB

speedball1 · Jan 14, 2009, 07:44 AM

suds backed all the way up the vent pipe and out the vent.
Is it possible that the vent is not venting properly?

The AAV(Air Admittance Vent) should remain closed until suction from the draining water opens up the vent. I would replace the AAV and see if that helps. We have had quite a few complaints like yours, ( especially with new MayTag washers) where the washer pump is too powerful for a 1 1/2" trap and stand pipe. What size is yours?
I have a solution that I've never had a complaint on and one that I had to use on my washer. You close off the stand pipe the washer connects to with a compression fitting,(see image) or I caulked the hose in with rags and sealed it with duct tape. This makes a water tight connection between the washer and the stand piipe. Nothing can leak out or overflow and the force from the pump will send the discharge out into the main drain. While there is some back pressure involved there will not be enough to damage the washer pump. Outside of oversizing the washer trap and standpipe or reducing the opening at the end of the hose this is about the only solutions that I know that works. Good luck and thank you for rating my answer. Tom

clawed · Jan 14, 2009, 08:47 AM

My standpipe/trap/vent assembly is all 2 in. diameter. Since its 2 inch, I would think the drain shouldn't back up unless there is a blockage downstream. Is this true?

If so, should I try snaking out the main drain?

If the AAV is stuck closed, could this cause a backup all by itself?

As you suggest, I'd also like to try sealing the washer drain hose to standpipe connection. I was going to use a rubber reducer coupling (with hose clamps) like in the photo you provided.

Are your other photos just examples of the different options that are available to accomplish the same thing? I am familiar with the black rubber reducer but I'm not sure about the other fittings. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something

lavalned · Feb 11, 2010, 09:13 AM

Originally Posted by lavalned

I have a solution that I've never had a complaint on and one that I had to use on my washer. You close off the stand pipe the washer connects to with a compression fitting,(see image) or I caulked the hose in with rags and sealed it with duct tape. This makes a water tight connection between the washer and the stand piipe. Nothing can leak out or overflow and the force from the pump will send the discharge out into the main drain. While there is some back pressure involved there will not be enough to damage the washer pump. Outside of oversizing the washer trap and standpipe or reducing the opening at the end of the hose this is about the only solutions that I know that works. Good luck and thank you for rating my answer., Tom

I'm having the same problem. I moved my washer and it was fine for 6 weeks into the drain, but now overflows. I've snoked and found nothing. The stand pipe is 2" and it goes into a 4' drainpipe.

Couldn't see the pics you put up, but is it a standard PVC compression fitting?

Also I know my stand pipe is not long enough. That problem I cannot fix without some major plumbing. It almost hit the floor joists above.

Thanks!

MaineSiteEval · Feb 11, 2010, 10:44 AM

FYI... I don't know if you are on septic or sewer not but this is one of the most common indications of a malfunctioning septic system... especially if the washer is in the basement.

lavalned · Feb 11, 2010, 11:20 AM

Originally Posted by MaineSiteEval

FYI.......I don't know if you are on septic or sewer not but this is one of the most common indications of a malfunctioning septic system....especially if the washer is in the basement.

Just had the septic pumped. Maybe something happened then? I don't see what could have happened.

MaineSiteEval · Feb 11, 2010, 11:33 AM

Open the septic cover if you can to be sure. A septic tank can re-fill in 2-3 days in normal use and your problem will return if you have a drainfield issue.

speedball1 · Feb 12, 2010, 07:48 AM

Originally Posted by lavalned

I'm having the same problem. I moved my washer and it was fine for 6 weeks into the drain, but now overflows. I've snoked and found nothing. The stand pipe is 2" and it goes into a 4' drainpipe.

Couldn't see the pics you put up, but is it a standard PVC compression fitting?

Also I know my stand pipe is not long enough. That problem I cannot fix without some major plumbing. It almost hit the floor joists above.

Thanks!

As posted, I would check the septic tank to see if the drain field is operating OK.

[Couldn't see the pics you put up, but is it a standard PVC compression fitting?

Here they are again.
Good luck, Tom,