[Kilt]

Hi,

I have a 1993 honda accord. Trouble code 15. I have replaced the coil, main relay, no luck.

The car stalls then restarts after a couple minutes, stalls on the highway as well. The car runs at idle until it warms up then dies.

Can a ICM intermitt when it warms up or get hot? I have just tuned the car up, all of the ignition parts are Honda from the dealer. The mechanic at The Honda dealer says he's never seen an ICM intermitt.

I do have a shop manuel and have preformed the tests for code 15.

Have you ever heard of a ICM intermitting? Please advise, thank you

Regards, Al

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Absolutely, it's a failing Ignition Control Module (I am 100% certain). Here's how to replace it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

This is the perfect time to also replace the coil, rotor, and distributor cap.

The mechanic at the Honda dealer must be a "green bean." I've seen many, many ICMs fail on an intermittent basis--very common. This is the most problematic Honda component period! Your symptoms are "classic" ICM failure. This will restore "like new" reliability and performance to your Accord.

[Kilt]

Absolutely, it's a failing Ignition Control Module (I am 100% certain). Here's how to replace it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

This is the perfect time to also replace the coil, rotor, and distributor cap.

The mechanic at the Honda dealer must be a "green bean." I've seen many, many ICMs fail on an intermittent basis--very common. This is the most problematic Honda component period! Your symptoms are "classic" ICM failure. This will restore "like new" reliability and performance to your Accord.

Hi, Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it! Would a test at an auto parts store on the ICM indicate intermitting failure of the ICM? Advanced Auto has a tester that I've seen in the store. Would you recommend using a Honda ICM (OEM) replacement or aftermarket? Please advise, Thanks

Regards, Al

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Bench testing ICMs is often a waste of time. I've seen many that have tested fine on the Well's machine, which AutoZone uses, that totally failed to work. Standard manual tests (e.g. in Haynes) are virtually useless, in my opinion. I replaced mine, like most people, with an aftermarket part. I've never heard of any problems with aftermarket ICMs. The only part I definitely believe, from experience, that should be Genuine Honda is the distributor housing.

Shop for price and warranty. The one I bought came with a lifetime warranty.

ICMs have a microchip inside that gets destroyed, over time, by heat. Electron migration is a factor, as well, and one reason why chips don't last forever.

[Kilt]

Bench testing ICMs is often a waste of time. I've seen many that have tested fine on the Well's machine, which AutoZone uses, that totally failed to work. Standard manual tests (e.g., in Haynes) are virtually useless, in my opinion. I replaced mine, like most people, with an aftermarket part. I've never heard of any problems with aftermarket ICMs. The only part I definitely believe, from experience, that should be Genuine Honda is the distributor housing.

Shop for price and warranty. The one I bought came with a lifetime warranty.

ICMs have a microchip inside that gets destroyed, over time, by heat. Electron migration is a factor, as well, and one reason why chips don't last forever.

Hi again,

Thanks for the information on ICM's, I really appreciate your time and experience. The best price and warranty I could find was a Duralast ICM from Autozone auto parts store with a limited lifetime warranty for $49.95 + tax. Do you think the Duralast brand would be a good choice? I found a Borg Warner with a limited-lifetime warranty for $82.00 plus tax as well. The dealer wants $105.00 + tax 1 year warranty. I've used Duralast batteries with good results but no other parts, please advise, Thank you Greasemonky.

Regards, Al

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Sure, that sounds like a great deal. It will also allow you to get your car back on the road right away. Be sure to follow my directions and apply a thin, even coat of heat transfer silicone grease to the back of the new ICM. Additionally, lightly coat the male connectors on the new ICM with silicone grease. Ensure the female connectors are clean and fit snugly.

Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable, before beginning work!

You will have saved yourself a bundle on diagnostic fees and labor. Shops try to make this "protected turf" and charge accordingly. Frequently, they will replace the whole distributor, including ICM, coil, rotor, and cap. Price that out at Honda, including labor.

[Kilt]

Sure, that sounds like a great deal. It will also allow you to get your car back on the road right away. Be sure to follow my directions and apply a thin, even coat of heat transfer silicone grease to the back of the new ICM. Additionally, lightly coat the male connectors on the new ICM with silicone grease. Ensure the female connectors are clean and fit snugly.

Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable, before beginning work!

You will have saved yourself a bundle on diagnostic fees and labor. Shops try to make this "protected turf" and charge accordingly. Frequently, they will replace the whole distributor, including ICM, coil, rotor, and cap. Price that out at Honda, including labor.

HI "GM",

Thank you for the additional tips about the heat transfer silicone grease in the back of ICM and the male connectors of the ICM, nothing about this in the Honda shop Manuel or a mention of ICM intermittent in trouble shooting either. I always buy the Shop Manuel for every vehicle I have bought over the past 37 years and have discovered they are not perfect by any means but very detailed for the most Part, expensive to!

I went out and bought a aftermarket ICM with a life time warranty for $49.95 + tax today and installed it with care and with your tips as well. I have been working on the car for the past 3 days so I was pretty burned out from researching and trying to solve the problem to say the least, I checked everything in the system. If I would have been told by the mechanic at the Honda Dealer that it "Could be" the ICM I would have started at that point. The car started up and idled for 25 minutes, kept running and did not stall! I then decided to test drive it so I drove over 60 miles, highway, low speed, country roads and in town, Never stalled and ran great. I don't want to get to excited until it runs well for a week or so! All of the parts I installed were: wires, coil, cap, button, plugs, ICM and main relay, about $350.00 total. The car has 157.000 miles and looks like new, you can eat off the engine! I think your right about changing the coil when you change an ICM (around 120,000) Like us, they wear out over time.

It is a breath of fresh air being in touch with someone who knows their stuff. I'm 53 years old and like you do most everything myself and for others as well. I built my own house (carpenter/contractor by trade) work and maintain on all of my (and my kids) vehicles, work on computers and do most other building trades, work on musical instruments to name a few. I don't give up and not to proud to ask for help when I don't understand something, That's how we learn isn't it?

You have been very helpful and I appreciate it, the world needs more folks like you. I'll run the car for a week or so and let you know if all is well, I do believe you nailed the problem though and I'll keep my fingers crossed that all goes well (positive thinking). I'll be in touch, Thank you GM
Regards, Al

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Good job. I know you solved the problem and soon your confidence will be completely restored in your Accord.

[Kilt]

:D

Good job. I know you solved the problem and soon your confidence will be completely restored in your Accord.

Hi GM,

The car has been running great since the repair, no troubles at all. Thank you so much for your help, knowledge, tips and opinions as well, you have been extremely helpful.

Take care, it has been a pleasure communicating with you. All the best for 2009, cheers

Regards, Al