[hondamadman]

My 1993 Honda Civic DX 1.5 litre 16 valve SOHC is having idle problems. I just had my engine swapped and even after the swap I am having this problem.
It started when it got cold out. It didn't do it during the summer. When the engine was swapped the idle air control valve was swapped too because the mechanic said he was experiencing the surges also, but that didn't help.

The only other things I can think of is the MAP sensor, which I bought off Ebay for a huge discount, but never replaced it yet. Last year I had this same problem too and I tapped the MAP sensor with a screwdriver and it seemed to clear out for a while, or the 02 sensor could be bad also.

Also, I know if the coolant level is off or if the system has air pockets this can cause it to surge also. I topped off the coolant and made sure the reservoir was full too.

Oh, here's a little more to help you determine the cause:

At first the car would only surge while in park.
Now it surges when I am in drive also and when I come to a light or stop sign even if I have been driving for a while.
The cars idle in general is higher than normal and it won't surge while the car is in reverse but it will be a higher idle than normal.

I know the engine has enough coolant because I am getting heat.

Any ideas?

If anyone has an idea please post it here and if you could be kind enough write me an email at Lasin007, yea like James Bond, at hot mail. Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Reset the ECM.

. Replace the Ignition Control Module:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

It would be a good idea to replace the coil, while you are at it.

. Test/replace the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.

. Read this link for additional insight:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post842969

[hondamadman]

Thanks txgreasemonkey. I do have another problem. My mechanic while swapping engines and putting the distributor from the old engine onto the swapped engine, left the clip that is in the fuse box.

Let me explain: From what I understand, when setting the timing you have to unclip a connection under the dash and jump the clip to keep the cars computer from trying to re adjust the timing while you are trying to set it.

Also, I would think you need to reclip the two ends when done. As of right now my car is a little sluggish on takeoff and from what I am figuring that clip works kind of like the old vacuum advance on the older cars and since he didn't reclip the ends I am not getting a change of timing at slower speeds when I need it for power.

Am I right or wrong? And do I need that clip connected again?

Thanks.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Here's how you set the timing with a strobe on your Civic:

1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Adjust “Final Idle Speed” to 700 rpm, using the idle speed adjustment procedures above.
3. Turn off engine and all electrical systems.
3. Jump the Service Check Connector with a paper clip.
4. Connect positive inductive timing light lead to the positive battery terminal.
5. Connect negative inductive timing light lead to engine ground.
6. Connect inductive timing light lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
7. Start engine.
8. Using the timing light, rotate the distributor, after loosening the three 12 mm mounting bolts, until timing is set to 16 degrees BTDC* on the crankshaft pulley. 16 degrees BTDC should be the middle of the three clustered hash marks on the pulley. Align middle hash mark on pulley with pointer above. You may want to take chalk or yellow paint and highlight the hash mark first.
9. Button everything up.
10. Remove the BACKUP fuse for 10 seconds, in order to reset the computer. Record any radio codes first.

*D15B7/D15Z1/D16Z6 engines.

You jump the Service Check Connector, not the fuse box.

Try setting it by ear, since your timing is likely too retarded--simply undue the three mounting bolts (12 mm) and rotate the distributor 1/4" counter-clockwise. Establish index marks on the distributor and engine head first.