[dlarocco]

I would like to replace an existing celling light with a Non-IC rated recessed can light. My house (built in 1984) is wired with 14/2 gauge w/ground Romex wire. The manufacturer’s instructions (UltiTech) state the following:

Warning – Risk of fire. Most dwellilngs bilt before 1985 have their supply wires rated 60 degress Celsius. Consult and electrician before installing, For supply connections use wire rated for at least 90 degrees Celsius.

It appears that most (if not all) 14/2 w/ground gauge wire (after 1985) has a 90 degree Celsius rating. Since my house was built in 1984 I assume that my wiring only supports the 60 degree Celsius tempurature rating.

I have a few questions:

1. Is there anyway to determine the tempurature rating of my existing Romex 14/2 w/ground gauge wire? I looked at the wire and it does not specify the rating on the casing.

2. Can I replace the existing celling light that currently supports 75 watt max on 14/2 wg Romex wire with a recessed can light drawing 75 watts on my existing 14/2 wg (assuming 60 degree Celsius wire since my house was built in 1984)?

3. The existing box that supports the lighting fixture is attached to the ceiling joist. Since the floor above is finished I will probably run a new wire from the existing junction box to the new location of the recessed light (centered between the studs). What type of flexible conduit should be used to from the junction box to the recessed can light electrical box? The recessed can light has an electrical box on the top of the light.

Thank you in advance!

[stanfortyman]

First off, I would RUN back to Home Depot and get a different light. Utilitech, Emerald, etc, are JUNK brands and not even worth installing.

Get a Halo or other name brand where the box is remote from the can and I bet you don't see that 90 deg C warning.

[dlarocco]

Thank you very much... I will do that.

[tkrussell]

All recess housings specify 90 Deg C wire, even Halo, see Step One of attached installation sheets found at:
Halo: Product Detail for H7T

The only method I know of getting around this is to end the existing cable in a junction box, and continue onto the new housing with a couple of feet of new 90 D C cable, usually Romex is fine. The JB can be up in the ceiling void loose, and close to the housing opening, so it will lbe accessible once the housing is removed.

[stanfortyman]

I've never even noticed that about Halo cans. That has GOT to be one of the stupidest thing I have ever seen. :mad:
Oh well.

[dlarocco]

Thanks to both of you for your prompt response. I appreciate it very much.

The 60 C Romex is already running into a junction box (and supports the existing overhead fixture). I will run the 90 C Romex from the junction box to the new recessed box on the Halo can light.

Thanks again!