[t22franklin]

When I removed my toilet from the floor, I found that the johnny bolts are fixed to the old base and cannot be switched out. The problem is, that I had to hack-saw one of them off due to the rust build up. This toilet is the original one from 1958 with the original wax ring. It seems that the pipe coming out of the drain includes a flange with the bolts permanently set in. What can I do?

Frank in Baltimore

[massplumber2008]

First... try to unscrew the johnnie bolts/screws with a pair of pliers or a pair of vise grip pliers if possible... they should unscrew if you are lucky!

If you are lucky and they unscrew then you may just need to purchase a new set of johnni SCREWS (see 1st pic.) at the local home supply store. If not so lucky, the old bolts will snap off and then you may need to *PUNT*... ;)

If old johnni screws snap off or need to be cut off flush with the floor then want you to really clean around the flange... under, sides, look for channels/slots in the flange. The gunk can get rock hard sometimes but use a flat screwdriver and kind of poke around.. see if can find a way to install new johnni BOLTS (see 2nd pic.). These bolts slide in a channel/slot on the cast iron flange.

If can't find slots/channels to slide new pair of bolts into and you can't use new pair of screw in bolts then you may need to purchase a REPAIR RING (see larger pic.) that will allow you to slide the bolts into a ring, secure the ring and then install the toilet.

Let me know what you think of this...

Glad to help.

MARK

[t22franklin]

In attempting to remove the old johnni bolt, the outside of the slot snapped off. I think I need the repair flange you referred to. What exactly should I ask for at Lowe's?

[massplumber2008]

Oh...

Then you should just need to ask for/purchase a SPANNER FLANGE... see the pic. Below. Lowe's will definitely have this, too! The repair ring I posted earlier would also work, but this spanner flange should be all that is needed.

It slips in under the broken side of the closet flange... *HINT*.. install the 1/4" johnni bolt 1st... ;)... then slide under the flange... may need to tap it with a hammer and small chisel to set it in tight to the flange.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Good luck...

MARK

[Milo Dolezal]

In Cast Iron plumbing, toilet ring (flange) and bolts are all installed separately. They are probably so deteriorated that you cannot tell by looking at them.

[t22franklin]

I was able to secure the spanner flange under the iron toilet flange. Using a masonry drill bit, I screwed it to the concrete floor as well. Now I have some leaking from the bottom of the tank, so I will be replacing the two washer-bolts that attach the tank to the bowl and I'll be done.

Thanks for your help. I'm delighted that I did not have to call a plumber.

[massplumber2008]

Good for you T22 franklin! I wasn't sure you would get the post before going to supply store.

You want that tank to be level side to side and front to back and want about 1/4" play when you push on it a little!

Good luck!

[afaroo]

Mark you are the winner, you solved another problem, thanks.

Regards,
John

[massplumber2008]

Thanks John.. we try.. ;)

How is the picture posting coming along..

[speedball1]

I will be replacing the two washer-bolts that attach the tank to the bowl and I'll be done.

You shouldn't have to replace the tank bolts, simply snug them up. Do not tighten them too tight. Too tight with no play can crack the tank when someone leans back. Leave at least a 1/4" inch of play in the tank. Good luck, Tom

[afaroo]

Very good, Thanks