[troy00]

I would appreciate any help you guys can give me. Ok here is goes

About a month ago my 93 Civic would not start, after checking a few things, the problem ended up being the distributor. I replaced and car ran fine for about a month (battery was replaced a couple months ago). Then a few days ago I went to move the car in the driveway, and it would not start. I quickly jumped the car and drove it up to get gas and to the store. It started back up at the store and again when I got back home. The next morning was the same thing, it was turning over very slowly, and I jumped it again. I began to suspect the alternaltor was bad.
However I did need to drive it for a short trip. While on that short trip, the car died while driving it. I had to have the car towed because now I could not jump it this time. I immediately noticed that I had no clicks when I turned the key and the fuel pump didn't initialize. So I began checking fuses. I had two blown fuses under the hood, the ECU and the backup fuse. And two fuses under the dash were blown. If I remember correctly is was the fuse with the yellow cover on it and the fuse directly to the left. I replaced all the fuses that were blown, but still had no relay clicks and no fuel pump sound and the check engine light stays on.
Now I'm thinking main relay under the dash. I went to order one at Advance, but it took two days for them to get the part. While I was waiting for the part, I decided to take out the alternator and have it checked since I thought that was going bad or was bad before all the problems arose. I took the alernator to AutoZone and had it checked, it was bad. Got a reman alternator while I was there and installed it. After that I tried turning the key to the on position. I still got no clicks and didn't hear fuel pump, but this time not only did the check engine light stay on, so did the oil light, battery light, and the SRS light. They all stayed on. I double checked the connections to the alternator, and it seemed fine.
I got the new relay today and intalled that, same problems. I'm now stumped. And one more thing that might be relavent. I can not change gears from park to neutral to move the car down the driveway some. I have rechecked all my fuses. I just don't know what could have happened to kill 4 fuses like that. Does anyone have any ideas. Any help would be appreciated.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Perform the K-Test on the ECM:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. The K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

My bet is the ECM is toast. It likely shorted out a number of circuits simultaneously. Here's how to replace it, if necessary:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

[troy00]

UPDATE:

Just in case you guys were wondering. This is s 93 Civic LX 1.5.

Anyhow, since my last post, I havne't had much time to look at the car. However, I started thinking that since the alternator tested bad and was replaced, I would have the battery tested and/or charged. This way, when I could look at it, I know the battery was at full charge, keep in mind that battery is about 5 weeks old.
Well, as I removed the battery I noticed quite a bit of acid around and on the battery, and the sides were swollen, not a good sign. I took it to AutoZone to have it checked and sure enough it was bad. I got a new battery and was really hoping that this was my problem. Well, as my luck has been, it was not the problem.
I was going to run the K test, and I figured for good measure, I'd recheck all the fuses before I got started. And, I had two blown fuses again. The 15A ECU fuse was blown under the hood, and the 10A SRS fuse under the dash was blown (the one with the little yellow cap on it). I went and bought some more fuses and then I replaced both of them. And whenever I turn the key to the "on" position, both fuses blow. I tried this about 3 times, just to make sure they were both getting blown when turning the key, and they were.
So, I tried testing the MAP connector for voltage. And I didn't get any. Let me get this straight, do you stick the lead into the female connector or on the male connector? I took it as you put the POS lead in the female connector, the connector on the right as you are looking at it after unplugging it? Then the NEG lead to ground. Is this correct. So, I don't know if I did this right and just got no reading, or got no reading because the ECU fuse keepy blowing and I'd get no reading anyhow.

Also, I'm curious about how to check the ECU. I read this post:

The confirming test is to turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the D harness to the computer, turn the ignition switch ON, and measure the voltage between computer pins D19(+) and D21(-). If there is less than approximately 5 volts, substitute a known good ECM. If you have approximately 5 volts between D19 and D21, repair an open between the ECM and the reference wire going to the MAP Sensor. After much experience with the K-Test, I wouldn’t bother running the confirming test anymore.

I looked at the ECU. It has 3 connectors going to it. Which one would pins D19 and D21 be on?

Anyhow, I'm probably looking at a bad ECU? Thanks in advance for any help.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You performed the K-Test correctly. As expected, your ECM is fried--it's shorting out internally and keeps blowing fuses.

[troy00]

OK.. first of all let me thank you for all your help with this. You've been great.

Now, let me update the situation.

I found an ECU at a junkyard for $50. It was the same part # P06 A51. I brought it home and installed it. Then I was keeping an eye on the SRS fuse as I turned the key and right away the SRS fuse blew again, however, I then heard the fuel pump initialize and I heard the relay click. So, I turned the key and it started. So, now it's running. Although I haven't driven it around yet, just let it run in my driveway for a little bit.

So, my alternator did test bad and was replaced, and I put in a new main relay before finally trying the ECU. Well, now I was curious if my main relay was actually bad, or if it was the ECU all along. I put in my old main relay with the "new" ECU. And again, the car would not start. So, the main relay was bad as well. What are the chances that my alternator, main relay and ECU all go bad at the same time?

Anyhow, I guess my next question would be, why would the SRS fuse keep blowing now? Is there something else I need to look at for that?

Again, thanks so much for your time!