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    la1401's Avatar
    la1401 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    May 14, 2008, 04:47 PM
    Installation of a twist and set flange
    I am in the process of remodeling my bathroom and after the demolition the flange for the toilet drain sets up to high. I will have to remove the old one and replace it with a new one lower to the concrete slab. I found a cast Iron "Twist and Set Flange" and was wondering if this is easy to install and will it do the job?
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #2

    May 14, 2008, 05:03 PM
    What is you drain pipe made from, cast or PVC. Your falnge can sit on top of the finished floor or flush with the floor surface, are you within these parameters?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    May 14, 2008, 05:14 PM
    Hi La1401:


    Hey, twist and set is pretty easy to install if everything comes together nicely!

    How are you planning to remove the old flange?

    First, I would soap the twist and set flange and try to fit into the drain pipe (over old flange for now)... here, the old flange should be leaded on the outside of the drain pipe, so if this will work should feel resistance to fitting the twist and set flange on the INSIDE of the drain pipe.

    If that seems right.. need to remove the old flange (I use a hammer and a cold chisel... but let me know what you are planning.. ok?).

    Then, if all good, want to tile up to pipe then install the new twist and set flange so flange sits directly on the tile... THEN.. need to secure the flange through the tile and screw flange into subfloor.

    Plan on picking up a 1/4" plastic concrete anchor kit with 1/4" masonary drill bit (sold at home supply stores... see pic) to secure through/into the tile... see picture.

    Let me know what you think... Mark
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    la1401's Avatar
    la1401 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    May 14, 2008, 05:23 PM
    The pipe is cast iron. I would like to remove the old flange with a cold chisel and hammer, but I am not sure what a cold chisel is. Everything massplummer2008 sounds right. Its 4" cast iron pipe and a leaded cast iron flange.
    la1401's Avatar
    la1401 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    May 14, 2008, 05:32 PM
    Forgive my ignorance of a cold chisel, but can I stick my chisel in the freezer and make it cold?? Or is a cold chisel something in itself.
    ballengerb1's Avatar
    ballengerb1 Posts: 27,378, Reputation: 2280
    Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
     
    #6

    May 14, 2008, 05:41 PM
    From wikipedia Chisel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    la1401's Avatar
    la1401 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    May 14, 2008, 06:16 PM
    Thanks for the comments guys they really helped. I was able to get the old flange off and will be installing a new twist and set cast iron flange after I get the floors down. To make certain I understand, the twist and set flange is installed by soaping up the rubber ring and fitting it into the existing cast iron pipe then screwing the new flange down until its gets the depth I need it
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #8

    May 15, 2008, 04:06 AM
    Hey La1401:

    The twist and set flange should be wetted with water to start, then apply light layer of soap and then twist and set so that the flange sits down tight ON TOP OF THE TILE!

    Then ALIGN the flange so that the toilet bolts will be centered on new flange... and drill through the holes in flange, through the tile, then set plastic anchors, then screw flange solidly to floor (not too tight, could crack new flange or tile).

    Then use wax gasket with horn and new johhni bolts to set the toilet. Here, tighten down in steps. 1st step is to set bowl and tighten the bowl down pretty good.. then walk away for 5 minutes, come back and tighten a little more (nuts will be looser than when you left), then 10 minutes later come back and cinch them down a bit more. Then cut the johhni bolts to right height, give 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the nuts again, and finally set the finish caps over the bolts and you should be done... ;)

    Note that with above explanation, you need to judge tightness... the idea is to let the wax squeeze out over a small period... better installation, less chance or loosening later.

    Good luck with it... Mark

    .
    la1401's Avatar
    la1401 Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    May 15, 2008, 05:14 AM
    Thanks a bunch.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #10

    May 15, 2008, 01:28 PM
    We're glad to help... ;)

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