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lesanderf · Apr 14, 2008, 01:07 PM

Hello,
My 99 Accord stalls randomly while driving and sometimes while idling. I will not restart again for at least an hour although it does turn over. It acts like it is not getting fuel. There is no gas odor. The RPMS seem OK when it does run and there is no noticeable fluxuation in RPMs. It just dies and won't restart for a while. Has anyone experienced this? What sensor, relay, or part could it be? I would like to not replace things that don't need replacing as most mechanics want to do.
Thanks

simoneaugie · Apr 14, 2008, 01:36 PM

I had this problem once with my Honda. The dealership couldn't find anything wrong. I put in gas treatment and the problem was gone. I hope it's this simple for you.

TxGreaseMonkey · Apr 15, 2008, 06:55 AM

. Disconnect the negative battery cable for 10 seconds, in order to reset the ECM. See if the problem goes away.

. If the problem persists, I would replace the ICM and coil:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

AutoZone and O'Reilly Auto can test ICMs for free.

lesanderf · Apr 18, 2008, 04:48 PM

Ok. Thanks for the suggestions. I checked and found that the fuel pump was only coming on sometimes. It would run for a while then stop. The Haynes Repair Manual revealed that power to the fuel pump was stopped by the "Main Fuel Relay" on the left side of the steering column. This relay gets a signal from 1) The distributor (it was o.k.)and 2) The depressed clutch or being in the park (also o.k.)position on the shifter.I checked The relay for continuity (it was a pain to get out) and it failed. I opened the case and actually saw the burned solder connection. I found a new one at O'Rieley Auto Parts for $40.00. You need to take the old one in to match since there are several "relays". That fixed the problem. The car runs even better.
Thanks again.

rajateli · Oct 1, 2008, 12:24 PM

Can you please explain how did you figure out the problem in the first place? I have the same problem on my 99 accord and I tried to show it to several mechanics (old and experienced ones) and they all wanted me to reproduce the problem to be able to do any testing. The problem never could be reproduced at the mechanics place, but the car keeps dying once in a while when driving. It is very dangerous and I need to fix the problem ASAP.
Please provide as much info as you can about the diagnosis you ran to come to the conclusion that main relay was the culprit.

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 1, 2008, 12:46 PM

rajateli, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil. Apply heat transfer silicone grease to the back of the ICM. If the problem persists, replace the main relay.

rajateli · Oct 1, 2008, 12:59 PM

Let me give you some history on this.
The problem started about an year back. The car failed to start when it was hot and I stopped for 5 minutes for any small chore. If I waited for 5-10 minutes the car started back up fine.
Gradually the probblem grew and the car failed to start when it was parked in hot sun for few hours and the temp inside rose to maybe 100 deg.
These problems were still manageble as the solution was to just let the car cool off for some time.
However now since past 3-4 months, the car dies while driving. It has happened about 3 times now and I am really worried about it.
I figured out from various forums that the problem may be with ignitor/coil or main relay? So I ordered a used but tested distributor and replaced it. The car still dies while driving, and as earlier I have to wait for 5-10 minutes before it restarts.
So my guess was that the next thing to change was the main relay.
My confusion is that main relay issue was always linked with hot conditions, however my car is now dying when it is cold, like 5 minutes from my house in the morning.

I am not sure why you gave me a different solution (ICM) that what was given to lesanderf (main relay)?

Please help.

rajateli · Oct 1, 2008, 02:36 PM

Txgreasemonkey, I think you are right about the ICM. Today after I wrote the last posting I started back for home from my office and the car stopped twice on the way. It has never happened before. The car is getting worse and worse. I was able to get help of a guy who had a piece of wire and we found that there was no spark. Please tell from where can I get new ICM at a reasonable cost? Honda is asking for $450 for the whole distributor.

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 1, 2008, 04:37 PM

rajateli, try Autozone, O'Reilly Auto Parts, RockAuto.com, or Advance Auto Parts. Here's how you can replace the ICM yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

While you have the distributor open, replace the coil and rotor at the same time--you'll be glad you did.

rajateli · Oct 1, 2008, 05:56 PM

Thanks for the help.
Should I buy a replacement part or HITACHI parts only? Also is I a good idea to replace the whole distributor itself?

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 2, 2008, 07:38 AM

If you have over 100,000 miles on the car, it would be a good proactive move to replace the distributor (genuine Honda only), including ICM and coil. Grease in the distributor bearing only lasts so long before failure--common problem.

rajateli · Oct 2, 2008, 07:49 AM

Thanks for the advice. Yes my car is just over 100K, so I will go for the complete new distributor itself. Do I still need to put the silicon grease on the ICM in the new one or it comes already applied?
Also wanted to know if this can be a starter problem at all? I had a talk with the ex-owner of the car and somehow he is convinced that this may have something to do with the starter he has replaced sometime earlier.

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 2, 2008, 08:15 AM

The new distributor will be good to go. If your car dies while running, the problem has nothing to do with the starter.

Replacing the distributor will affect timing; therefore, mark it in advance with a scribe and check it with a timing light afterwards.

rajateli · Oct 6, 2008, 03:43 PM

Hi, updates for you.
I ordered a new distributor ($300) and also a new relay ($60) - both new and original parts from HONDA dealer.
I got them today so I took the parts to the local mechanic and when the guy came out to check the car and parts, the car failed to start. Now this workshop/garage is hardly half a mile from my home and since I was not using the car from past few days and the tempreture in MA has already dropped to 50, I am sure the car was NOT HOT.
It was perfect timing for the car to stall, the mechanic quickly changed the relay and the car started immediately, just to make sure he put back the old relay again and the car failed to start. Again put in the new one the car started right back up.
So fortunately, the distributor was not put in... I am going to return the same and get back my $300.
So it was the main relay after all.
Conclusion: Main relay can cause not only hot starting problem but also stalling of car while running in cold conditions.
Thanks you all for your quick replies and all the information you provided.
I will again seekl your help in case the problem reoccurs.

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 6, 2008, 07:20 PM

rajateli, glad to see you solved your problem. My experience is that, if you want like-new reliability and performance from your Honda, replace the ICM, coil, main relay, and ECM every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. These are the problematic components. In an effort to save money, most people won't do this.

rajateli · Oct 9, 2008, 10:10 AM

Ok, I will replace the distributor too as per your advice. You r right,it's not worth the risk.

Can you please tell me that when the main relay fails, does it stop the spark too? Strangely when the main relay was failing (posting above), there was no spark. My understanding was that main relay controls fuel pump, so how come there was no spark when main relay failed and there was when the relay was changed (we checked twice)?

TxGreaseMonkey · Oct 9, 2008, 07:11 PM

Simple, anything that prevents the CEL from going out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, will prevent spark--examples are fuses, main relay, ignition switch, or ECM.