[aljan]

Please can you help I have a honda accord year 1990 2.liter injection 4 door saloon auto
The car died on me when driving along. There seems to be no sparks at all any ideas

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Proper ignition system evaluation begins by answering three basic diagnostic questions:

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? If not, check the fuel pump.

If the CEL does not go out, most Hondas will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. That's why we begin our diagnosis here.

After answering the questions above, check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Next, perform the K-Test on your ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.

If everything so far tests okay, check for spark. If you don't have spark, have the Ignition Control Module (igniter) and coil tested for free at AutoZone. If they are good, the problem may be that one of the CYP, CYL, or TDC sensors in the distributor is bad. In this case, replace the distributor with one from Honda, not an aftermarket product.