Hi. My 96 civic won't start. I've have read so much on this site and find the information very helpful, but feel it could be a number of things. I replaced the timing belt and water pump less than 2 years ago. I would sometimes get a hesitant start on days when I let the gas tank go below 1/2. Other days I would get nothing, go in the store come out, turn key, dead. Wait about 4 min and try again, starts fine. Don't know if these probs are related to my current one. Well, one night go to leave work and no go, I did let the gas level get quite low that day. After no start I put enough gas in it to bring it to 1/2 tank plus some dry gas (Heet). Will crank, fuel pump turns on, I believe I smell gas in exhaust, check engine comes on when ignition is "on", tried to jump it, all lights work. Just won't start. I attempted to listen to the main relay, but can't hear anything, So many other beeps happening when I turn ignition to "on" position. I know very little about cars, most I've learned about my civic is on here, troubleshooting. Thank you!

. If the Check Engine Light (CEL) stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, my bet is the ECM needs to be replaced. In this case, perform the K-Test on the ECM (computer):

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If confirmed by the K-Test, you will need to remove and replace the ECM. Here's how to do it:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

. If the CEL comes on and goes off, after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, then I would remove and test the Ignition Control Module and coil inside the distributor. Many AutoZone stores can do this for free. Here's how to remove the components yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

Ok, I had a mechanic look at the car. He said I had no spark and it was the distributor. He put a new distributor in, I am concerned because it was not a genuine Honda distributor, but it was brand new. Well the car started with the new distributor. So it is driving well aside from a thump I hear when I start the car, except an hour after I took it home I was waiting in the mall parking lot for a friend and it stalled. It took about 5-10 min for me to get it started again and all the while I was trying to start it, it was showing the original no start symptoms when I allegedly had a bad distributor. I haven't had any start problems since, but I've only had the car back for 4 hours and I have already had an issue. Do you think this distributor may go on me, or is my timing off?

Oh, also, when the car stalled at the mall, my fist couple starts sounded like a close start and then stall, the last few before it actually started up were just cranking.

So did the mechanic correct the problem. I may be heading in the same direction and changing my distributor but I don't want to throw good money after bad.

Well, ever since the first night having it back and having the no-start probs I got it started and it has been running fine ever since. I feel like it may growl a little more in general but otherwise I feel good about it, so far.

Thanks for the reply and Glad to hear it's still running and no new problems.