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    JumbleJim's Avatar
    JumbleJim Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Dec 4, 2007, 02:36 AM
    How High is "Too" High
    I am installing a toilet in my basement and have set the flange, although I have not yet relayed the concrete. It is an offset flange (for wall spacing issues), which is why I set it first. With it firmly glued, it appears that the bottom of the flange will sit about 1/4" above the floor. will this be too high? from the top of the flange to where the concrete will be is almost 3/4". If I have to redo my work, I can live with it, but would like to know beforehand if what I have will suffice. Any help appreciated :eek:

    Ps- I will be laying only vinyl tile for flooring. A section of the concrete (where someone had previously cut into it) is not level, which would make it hard to put a subfloor, and there is a drain in the floor that would be difficult to deal with.
    Pps- what would be the ramifications of sealing off the floor drain in my basement?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Dec 4, 2007, 05:30 AM
    With it firmly glued, it appears that the bottom of the flange will sit about 1/4" above the floor. will this be too high? from the top of the flange to where the concrete will be is almost 3/4".
    You do have a little "wiggle room" to work with here. If you'll notice there's a lip on the bowl that raises it up a bit. When that happens to me I make a dry run and place the bowl over the flange without a wax seal. If it's solid on the floor I set it but if it rocks I an faced with two options. 1) I can set the bowl and shim it so it doesn't rock **or** 2) I can re-do the flange.
    pps- what would be the ramifications of sealing off the floor drain in my basement?
    There would be no problems if you sealed off your floor drain. If you don't ever plan on using it again you can simply jam rags down in it so nothing leaks out into the main and fill it with cement or if you think it might be used in t6he future you could take a 2" test plug and seal off the trap. Good luck, Tom
    JumbleJim's Avatar
    JumbleJim Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Dec 4, 2007, 12:38 PM
    So in order to make a dry run, I will need to first set the concrete (at which point I don't think I will want to redo the flange), being that my hole is 2' by 3'. If I decide when I set the toilet that it needs to be shimmed, will I still be able to use caulk around the base to make it look good? Or will the space between the toilet and floor be to great?

    Ps- thank you for your quick response!

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