[lilacone]

Hi, I am new to your site looking for help on why my 98 Accord won't start. It did this about 9 months ago which we thought it was having moisture problems since it seemed to only not start when it was raining ( I guess that was just a coincidence). My husband replaced the distributor cap and rotor and it ran fine for 9 months. Now its not starting again. It does this on the first start of the day or couple days, not when the car is hot. It might start one day and not another. The car has 148,000 miles with the only other thing going on is that the check engine light came on and the dealer said I needed to replace my catalytic converter, which I have not done (could this have anything to do with it). Do you have any ideas of what we could check for this problem?

Thank You

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Run through the tests outlined in sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html

Even without running the tests, I would replace the Ignition Control Module and coil, due to the mileage on the car and the problematic nature of these components.

[lilacone]

HI, you had offered suggestions on my 98 Accord not starting. Unfortunately my husbands health has not aloud us to change the parts you suggested as of yet, but I do have another question regarding this Accord. We replaced the battery in it and started it up with no problems, a couple days later we went to start it and it won't start (no surprise) but we noticed that the CEL light did not come on nor could you hear the fuel pump when you turned to key on. The Oil pressure light does come on but of course the car does not start. We played with it for a bit, turned the key on and off over and over when the CEL light came on and the fuel pump hummed the car started, the next attempt no start, etc. We got to wondering if the fuel pump was going out, so we called the dealer and that was when they told us not to think about the fuel pump but more likely the ignition switch was bad, (we checked into the recall and apparently that had already been done on this car) but we wonder if it is bad again. When the car is running you can barely bump the key back and it shuts off, but we have never had the problem of the car stalling while driving on the road or freeway, never. I was wondering what your thoughts were on this new information, CEL light coming on one min and not the next, pump working one min and not the next and car starting when the CEL is on but not starting if it is out. Does this sound like ignition switch or continue with the original suggestions you gave me? Thanks so much for your help.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

CEL problems stem from fuses, main relay, ECM, or ignition switch. In your case, I suspect either the igniton switch, which is still rare, or the ECM. The ignition switch is not difficult to check out or replace. If the problem persists, then more than likely the ECM (computer) is experiencing intermittent failure. I recommend replacing ECMs on Hondas every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Have your husband run the K-Test, at several different times. He definitely should run it when the Check Engine Light stays on.

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

If the K-Test confirms the ECM is bad, replace it with a remanufactured ECM. I replaced the ECM on my 1993 Civic DX with a Cardone remanufactured ECM, with a lifetime warranty, from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Well maintained Accords should be able to go 300,000 miles. If you plan on keeping the car and want "like new" reliability and performance, then I would still replace the Ignition Control Module and coil. It's important to maintain the integrity of the basic electrical system on these cars. The ICM, ECM, coil, main relay, and ignition switch are crucial for reliability. If you do the work yourself, it's not too expensive to replace all of these components and have a new lease on life.

[lilacone]

I am being told that when replacing the ECM in my Honda I will need to have my ignition key rekeyed, does this sound correct? This is first I've heard of this.

Lilacone

[TxGreaseMonkey]

It's very possible. Ask, if you get your current ECM remanufactured, if this will be unnecessary. Anti-theft (immobilizer) systems create a host of problems.