[Neewin]

I have a little update and additional question for my earlier question around the 99 EX Honda.
This is old news now. New news is on the bottom
• I live about 92 miles from work.
• I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX, V6 Coup. I bought it new.
• I put in about 255,000 miles already (I was driving 99%) and intend to keep driving it until 500K miles
• I still love the car and it is still like brand new with the same attitude, acceleration, and speed.
• Original fuel pump, battery.
• Original trunk, doors and fenders. Couldn’t say the same for the front bumper’s cover and the hood  (my wife called it the “Honda Accordion”). Airbag did not deploy when I inspected the exhaust pipe of the Ford Explore in my driving position (low speed out of the stop sign). This happened about a year ago.
• Timing belt and water pump were replaced at approximately 190K+ miles on the Odometer.
• Engine light went on for about 1.5 years now.
• Was told by mechanic after hooking up to computer that the catalyst needed to be replaced but other than that would not impact other part of the engine. I elected not to replace the converter due to finances.
• Tuned up about 7 months ago
• Something happen relating to this in the life of the vehicle to date:
1. By way of history, when the vehicle was 20K miles, I could not start the vehicle in one of the hot afternoon. It did start after 3 tries.
2. I had the exhaust manifold (engine light on, ran rough, sputter, and quit) replaced due to high carbon deposit about 4 years ago by Burnsville dealership.
• Few months ago (3 months), the vehicle acted up a little. The symptoms are as follow:
1. Stop at gas station in the morning on the drive to work to fill up (about 9 miles from home), sometime it would not start. I would have to try 4-5 times and sit for about 3 minutes and it would start. This happen at least 2-3 occasions. The engine sounded very dry as if no fuel is delivered to it. Also, it would sputtered and die couple of times before it is actually running. The idle would fluctuate a little before holding steady at around 600 RPMs.
2. Brought it to the mechanics (2 and not Honda specialists) and both could not find any issues (hooked up to diagnostic computer) with the engine and/or fuel pump. Both indicated the cylinders (6) are all misfiring. Checked the distributor cap and wires and found no issues. One indicated compression is down to about 80%+ (any issue with this?)
3. Noticed the engine is running rough (misfiring?) on the first 10 miles (speed below 60 mph/under 2000 rpm) before I hit the highway. This happens in the morning as well as in the afternoon (up hill). It seems as if the rough running is more prominent in the afternoon than in the morning (up hill?).
4. The engine quit while I was driving (below 60 mph) and it happened again with the mechanic but could not pinpoint any thing.
5. Have not looked at replacing the manifold yet.
6. Typically, it would start fine in the morning on the first try.
7. As I was driving on the highway (06/20/07), cruising at a normal speed (80 mph), the engine starts to cut out and engine light flicker as the engine going in and out. The RPM was still at around 2000 but did not response to the accelerator pedal. Pulled onto shoulder, shift to park and noticed the engine was still idling. Tried the gas and it seemed responsive. I pulled back out to the highway and went to work (85 miles away) and no other issues were noticed.
8. 6/21/07 car dies again (twice, afternoon), but was able to start right up on the second try. Noticed that the rpm and speedometer gages were all zero out but light and everything else still have power.

(New News)
New Update on the vehicle:
• July 6th 07 had the engine replaced with a used but still good condition one. Mechanic told me that the old engine had compression of less than 75 PSI and the replacement is twice that. Took the car home and the engine light came back on (driven approximately 120 miles), but the car still ran great.
• Early morning of 7/10/07 stopped at gas station to fill up after about 10 miles of driving (start from home). Car resisted starting after filling up. It finally started after about 4 cranks. Took back to the mechanic to check for reasons. Computer indicated some vacuum issues and was told to change the gas cap (I always made sure the cap is tight by clicking it 3-5 times). Reset the code and engine light went off. Drove for about 12 miles and light came back on. Didn’t have time to change gas cap and engine light is still on. No apparent issue with car performance.
• Early morning of 7/18/07-after the usual fill up, car again wont start after several cranks. It did seem like it was running but at very low idle speed and died off. Finally started on the 5th or so crank.
• Early morning of 7/19/07 (Thursday) engine and power in the car seem to momentarily cut out (a blip). Car jerked due to no power and everything went back on immediately. I didn’t have to pull over. Stopped at the gas station for fill up again. Didn’t turn off the engine fear that it won’t start. It was ok and no issue on the way to work.
What seems to be the problem? Apparently we didn't fix the right problem.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Is the new engine identical to the old one? If not, the ECM will have issues with the setup.

. Test/replace igniter and coil--AutoZone will do for free.
. Check MAP Sensor.
. Replace fuel filter.