Check out some similar questions!

irenesteven · Dec 9, 2011, 05:08 PM

Hi,

Day & Night by Carrier
Product: 395BAW048080ABJA
Model: 395BAW048080
Date of mgf: 1987

My Day & Night by Carrier is constantly blowing cold air even when the thermostat is on Off or Auto. When trying to turn the heat on, the blower just constantly blows cold air. I've tested the voltage on the board and all seems to be working fine. PR1 and PR2 along with L1 and L2 is getting 124v and 123.6v respectively, and HI and LO along with SEC1 and SEC2 is getting 36v and 28.5v respectively. When I test COM to SEC1 I get 28v, but I test COM to SEC2 I only get .42v. On W, are and G is getting .5v, same goes for the spark igniter .1v. On 1 and 3 on top of White Rogers is getting .37v. I have already switch out the control board (HH84AA009) thinking it maybe bad due to visual char capacitor with a brand new ICM275 Fan Control Center board which suppose to be compatible. What do you think is the problem?

Thank you in advance for your help.
Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 9, 2011, 06:39 PM

It really sounds like you have an open high limit or rollout switch. IF a high limit is tripped (or open) the blower will run continuously with no heat.

irenesteven · Dec 9, 2011, 07:17 PM

Thank you mygirlsdad77 for responding. I've just check the high limit switch and it is getting 24v, I guess that means it is open. But if I discount one or both of the blade connector, the blower still continue to blow. How can I reset the high limit switch? Also, why is the spark igniter is not getting any voltage to start the ignitor?

Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 9, 2011, 07:25 PM

If you are getting 24v between the two terminals on the limit, then yes, it is open. Disconnecting any wire will only make it still open. Try jumping the two wires together and see if things work. If they do, do not under any circumstances leave the wires jumped, as it is a safety device that can only be bypassed for trouble shooting purposes. If jumping the two wires together fixes things, shut the furnace off, and get a new high limit asap. Should be all set after that. Let me know what you find.

irenesteven · Dec 9, 2011, 07:56 PM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

You're right! When I jump the two wires together on the high limit switch the blower stop. I will go and replace the switch tomorrow and let you know the outcome. By replacing the high limit switch fix the power issue on the igniter?

Thanks,
Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 9, 2011, 08:03 PM

Well, you can leave it jumped long enough to see if the furnace will go through a complete cycle. When the limit is open, it will not let the igniter receive power. Leave it jumped long enough to see if the furnace will light and work normally. If it does, shut er down and get a new limit. Let me know. I will be away from the computer for awhile, so I will try to catch up tomorrow.

irenesteven · Dec 10, 2011, 04:54 PM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

The only store that was open that carry furnace parts did not have the same part I was looking for. The part that I have is L160-40F HH12Za161A and they have only L170-40F. I did not purchase it because the temperature rating is 10 degree higher. I did not want to that a chance for my furnace to burn up.

Would it be okay if I replace it with L170-40F? I saw a few places online with the same L160-40F degree but have a different part number. Do you think that would be okay too as long as the degree is L160-40F?

Thank you for your advice.

Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 10, 2011, 05:40 PM

I would wait till Monday, and go to a heating and ac dealer. Make sure to bring the model and serial number of your furnace. They might have the right switch for you. As long as the switch mounts up the same, and has the same temp readings, it will work just fine. If they don't have one that is almost exactly the same, they should be able to order you the exact one for your furnace.

Did jumping the high limit make the furnace work?

irenesteven · Dec 10, 2011, 08:47 PM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

Thanks for your advice. I will wait until I can get one that is compatible if not exactly the same.

Yes, I did test with the jumper and the pilot did light up. But the burner turns off after 10 to 15 seconds. Is it because I removed the high limit switch from the furnace and leaving an open hole?

Thank you again for your help.

Steven

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 11, 2011, 03:10 PM

No the hole won't make it shut down. Get the new limit in and we will have to take it from there. You may have to clean the flame senser.

irenesteven · Dec 13, 2011, 12:26 AM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

I could not find a store that will sell the switch without a contractors license here locally. So, I end up purchasing it online. I did not receive any indication when it will arrive. My guess it will arrive sometime end of this week or next week. I will respond to you as soon as I received the part and let you know the out come from it.

Thank you for your help as always.

Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 13, 2011, 04:38 PM

Sounds good, looking forward to an update. Good luck.

irenesteven · Dec 14, 2011, 12:25 AM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

Today I was able get the switch from a local commercial contractor company. I put in the switch and the spark igniter started and lite the pilot light. Initially the burner didn't light up until after 2 to 3 minutes and then it lasted for 2 to 3 seconds. Then right after, it comes back on immediately and shut itself off after 2 to 3 seconds of burning again.

While this is happening, the pilot stays lite with pretty high flames almost reaching the White Rodgers. I was afraid it might cause an explosion, but I was watching it very closely. I try to adjust the pilot light on the White Rodgers, which it did not make any difference on the amount of gas coming out to the pilot. Do you know where I can make the adjustment to lower the flame?

Back in March I replaced the spark igniter and the pilot with a used one from eBay because my old spark igniter did not product any sparks and then I replace the pilot because it did not trigger the burner to start. That is what the person who sold me the spark igniter said. I guess that is what you suggested, about cleaning the sensor, right?

So, what do you think is the problem now?

Oh, I forgot to mention that after the burner starts couple of times, the burner and the pilot light go out and then the blower starts. I guess it's because of the furnace got too hot.

Thank you for your help as always.
Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 14, 2011, 04:07 PM

Are you sure there was a pilot orifice in the new pilot assembly. There needs to be, and it needs to be for either nat gas, or propane, wichever your furnace runs on.

I hate to say it, but I would get a new pilot assembly, with correct orifice, and sparker with wire. Your unit most likey senses the flame through the sparker, so I think that would be my next step. There is usually an adjustment for pilot flame on the gas valve, but if won't help much if there isn't a pilot orifice. Also, make sure the flame is burning out of the pilot, not out of the compression connection to the pilot assembly. If there is a leak before the orifice, it will burn incorrectly, and dangerously. You are getting it done one step at a time, keep it up.

irenesteven · Dec 15, 2011, 01:37 PM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

You are right, the orifice is missing from the one I purchase from eBay. I will try to pull it out from my old one. The flame is coming out of the pilot. I guess the missing orifice in the pilot that is the reason for the flame to be so high. Is there something else in the pilot assembly control the burner to shut off?

Thanks,
Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 15, 2011, 06:24 PM

Ouch. Don't run that furnace at all until you get an orifice in there. Not good. Believe it or not, without the orifice, the flame will not be as hot, it will be a "lazy" flame.

It can be a real bear getting the old orifice out. Try using some wd40 on it and getting something in there to wiggle it out. If you get it out without damaging it at all, you can sure use it. If you can't get it out, I would go back to where you got the limit and see if they happen to have an orifice on hand. They really are pretty universal for pilots. Take care.

irenesteven · Dec 19, 2011, 10:09 AM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

I got the orifice out without any trouble. I put in the eBay pilot assembly and the burner stay lite. However, I still have one concern, that is the pilot light still stays on, and the flames still drift out over the burner and near the spark igniter unit. Shouldn't the pilot shut down when the burner starts?

Thank you,
Steve

mygirlsdad77 · Dec 19, 2011, 05:50 PM

The pilot will stay lit when the burners are lit. The pilot should only go out when the call for heat is done. If you can, shut all the lights off in the room, make it as dark as you can, and post a picture of the pilot burning before the burners lite, and another when the burners and pilot are lit. Don't use a flash. I should be able to let you know if the flame is safe.

irenesteven · Dec 20, 2011, 11:31 AM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

The pictures didn't come out too well, I also did a video but could not upload with this posting. I will try to upload on a second posting.

Thank you again for helping me.

Steve

irenesteven · Dec 20, 2011, 12:38 PM

Hi mygirlsdad77,

I couldn't upload the video. I'm getting this error message.

"Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing."

Do you have a personal email address that I can send the video to?

Thank you again.

Steve