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    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    May 18, 2013, 08:17 PM
    95 honda civic got spark & fuel but won't start why
    Ihave a 95 honda civic lx 1.5 just put new distributor on got spark & fuel can't get it start
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    May 19, 2013, 04:20 AM
    Did you index mark the old distributor with the mounting bracket. If not, the new distributor may be retarded too much. Loosen the 3 mounting bolts and rotate the distributor housing counterclockwise a little, in order to advance the timing. If the problem persists, it may be because you installed an aftermarket distributor. Many problems on this site due to these products--I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down.
    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    May 19, 2013, 12:21 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Did you index mark the old distributor with the mounting bracket. If not, the new distributor may be retarded too much. Loosen the 3 mounting bolts and rotate the distributor housing counterclockwise a little, in order to advance the timing. If the problem persists, it may be because you installed an aftermarket distributor. Many problems on this site due to these products--I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings, where it's fine to install an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down.
    No when I bought the distributor I asked if there was anything special I had to do they said no just to make sure lugs & slot were lined upbut we did try moving the distributor both directions and found a spot were it was attempting to fire but would not start so we played with it a little more and now it just cranks checked spark & its good checked for fuel at fuel rail & its good one of our auto parts stores suggested the ecm do you think that is it
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    May 19, 2013, 12:26 PM
    If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the ECM is likely fine. If it comes on and goes off normally, focus on the distributor. You may need to exchange your aftermarket distributor for another, if it's under warranty.
    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    May 19, 2013, 12:31 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    If the Check Engine Light comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, the ECM is likely fine.
    What about fuel pump relay that was also suggested and do u know were it is located or are they talking about main relay
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    May 19, 2013, 12:51 PM
    The main relay is the fuel pump relay.

    Be sure to test all under dash, especially the ACG(ALT)(S) fuse, and all under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. I would also clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing (3-wire brass connector).
    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    May 19, 2013, 01:13 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    The main relay is the fuel pump relay.

    Be sure to test all under dash, especially the ACG(ALT)(S) fuse, and all under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. I would also clean the main ECM ground, located on the thermostat housing (3-wire brass connector).
    Ithink my buddy tested all fuses both under the hood and the dash with multi meter everything tested good as far as I know I will clean the ground & see what happens as far as main relay goes my buddy said it should click 3 times 1 when you turn key to on position 1 after fuel pump primes injectors & shuts off &1 when you start the car if it does that then main relay is good it did click all 3 times but is he correct
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    May 19, 2013, 02:00 PM
    Yes.
    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    May 19, 2013, 02:03 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    Yes.
    I cleaned that ground & still nothing any other suggestions
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #10

    May 19, 2013, 02:08 PM
    IMO, the distributor is the problem. Install a genuine Honda distributor housing, with an aftermarket igniter and coil to keep the cost down. Otherwise, exchange your current distributor for another.
    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    May 19, 2013, 02:44 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    IMO, the distributor is the problem. Install a genuine Honda distributor housing, with an aftermarket igniter and coil to keep the cost down. Otherwise, exchange your current distributor for another.
    OK but I think I might have screwed up last night buddy told me to bring #1 cylinder to TDC and check to see were the mark was on bottom pulley when I did that I think I was looking at the wrong mark it was a single mark on both sides of the pulley when I went back out there today I noticed another marking on the front of the pulley were 3 marks grouped together and on inside of pulley was 1 red mark I'm assuming that the second set of marks are the right onesbut when I line those up on bottom pulley the piston is slightly off TDC HOW BAD DID I SCREW UP
    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #12

    May 19, 2013, 04:43 PM
    When #1 piston is tdc what other piston shoul be up
    While checking timing marks I brought #1 cylinder to tdc what I want to know is what other cylinder should be up at same time
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #13

    May 19, 2013, 05:10 PM
    Depends on the number of cylinders 4, 6, 8, 10 and the firing order. 4 cylinder typically 1+4 or 1+3. #1 full compression, 3 or 4 full exhaust.
    dmagg5's Avatar
    dmagg5 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    May 20, 2013, 09:01 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ma0641 View Post
    depends on the number of cylinders 4, 6, 8, 10 and the firing order. 4 cylinder typically 1+4 or 1+3. #1 full compression, 3 or 4 full exhaust.
    Thank you now back to my original ? Got spark & fuel but won't start items changed were fuel pump & filter, valve cover gasket , plugs , wires , distrrib cap , & ditributor oh & icm tested all fuses in &out there is fuel to the rail & spark but seems weak blue with an orange tint I am at a yotal loss & so are most people I talk to oh I will say this after changing valve cover gasket car started ran great for 1/2 hr then died & wouldn't start so cleaned plugs &put new cap & wires on car started again & ran great and died tried stating but ran rough and if I touched gas would die so isprayed inside distrib & cap with elec clean car started ran great for 1/2 hr & died again but every time I sprayed the distrib it would start till eventually nothing so replaced distrib & still nothing
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #15

    May 20, 2013, 06:03 PM
    Since it does run for a while, it sounds like something is grounding out when hot. Fuel pump relay, coil, ignitor.

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