[b1goodbar]

I have a 1990 Honda Accord with 291K miles and I've been experiencing a problem over the past year. It is an intermittent problem, while driving the car will suddenly lose power and when I step on the accelerator it just continues to stall. When it happens I pull over and wait a few minutes and drive the car again never turning the engine off and it will drive with no problems. If I turn the engine off it will not start immediately, after about 15 to 30 minutes it will start and again drive with no problems. I changed the distributor, spark plugs and wires, and fuel filter. Like I said earlier it doesn't happen often and there is no indicator when it will happen it just does and speed doesn't matter fast (80 mph) or slow (10-30mph). All symptoms pointed towards the Throttle Position Sensor •Bucking and jerking of the car. •Idle surging of the car.•Sudden stalling of the car engine. •Hesitation while the driver of the car is trying to accelerate. I replaced the TPS and all seem well and just when I thought it was fixed it did it again. I'm at my wits end any help would greatly be appreciated. I am planning to replace the crank sensor and O2 sensor. Any suggestion?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Install a genuine Honda distributor housing (all others are problematic), along with an aftermarket Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil to keep the cost down.

[b1goodbar]

I replaced the distributor about 7 or 8 months ago. Could it be anything else?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

To me, everything points to the distributor. You can try and replace the igniter, being sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new igniter.

[b1goodbar]

To me, everything points to the distributor. You can try and replace the igniter, being sure to apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new igniter.

Within the last 3 months I changed the fuel filter, distributor housing, ignition coil, igniter, spark plug wires and spark plugs and still the same thing is happening. It seem to be getting worse, every time I change gears (5spd) and press on the accelerator it feels like it loses power, then it sputters and even sound as if it will back fire; then it will suddenly accelerate and if I let off the gas it will start to sputter again and the process starts all over. Could this have anything to do with the fuel line or fuel pump?
I'm at my wits end on what could be causing this problem.

[b1goodbar]

I replaced the distributor housing, ignition coil, igniter, spark plug wires on Wednesday, 26 September.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Did that solve the problem?

[b1goodbar]

Did that solve the problem?

No, while driving to work today the same problem still exist. It seem to be getting worse, every time I change gears (5spd) and press on the accelerator it feels like it loses power, then it sputters and even sound as if it will back fire; then it will suddenly accelerate and if I let off the gas it will start to sputter again and the process starts all over. Could this have anything to do with the fuel line or fuel pump?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Is the timing retarded too much? If so, loosen the 3 mounting bolts and rotate the distributor housing slightly counterclockwise (CCW).

[b1goodbar]

TxGreaseMonkey - I think this worked. I adjusted it last night and drove it a short distance and it didn't sputter or stall. I will take it out for a much longer test drive tonight and if it still no problems I will take it on the interstate for the final test. I will let you know the outcome.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I thought that was the problem. Eventually, you may want to adjust the timing spot on:

Honda Accord Ignition Timing Adjustment

1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

2. Adjust Idle Speed to 700 rpm.

3. Turn off engine and all electrical systems.

4. Jump the Service Check Connector (SCC) with a paper clip.

5. Connect positive inductive timing light lead to the positive battery terminal.

6. Connect negative inductive timing light lead to engine ground.

7. Connect inductive timing light lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.

8. Start engine.

9. Using the timing light, rotate the distributor, after loosening the three 12 mm mounting bolts, until timing is set to 16 degrees BTDC* on the crankshaft pulley. 16 degrees BTDC should be the middle of the three clustered hash marks on the pulley. Align middle hash mark on pulley with pointer above. You may want to take chalk or yellow paint and highlight the hash mark first.

[b1goodbar]

OK update on my problem. Not so good its still happening and to add to the problem when it stalls the car starts jumping excessively. Could this be a fuel pump problem?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Replace the fuel filter, if it hasn't been changed in the last 48 months. Did you check the timing with a strobe light? Any codes?

[b1goodbar]

Replace the fuel filter, if it hasn't been changed in the last 48 months. Did you check the timing with a strobe light? Any codes?

The check engine light came on but the Honda Service Department turn the ignition off and reset the check engine light therefore no codes was given when they performed the diagnostic. Two day have past and the check engine light hasn't come back on. I did check the timing it was a little high it was registering 850 and should have been 700. The engine idle is smooth and relatively quiet. I replaced the fuel filter a couple of months ago. I heard some cars have more than one fuel filter is that the case with Honda? I was thinking fuel pump because it has never been replaced and the car is 22 years old. On Wednesday I will take it to the autocraft shop and have the timing set using the steps above before doing the fuel pump to see what happens. Thanks for your quick replies.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I'd save the money on the fuel pump--I've never seen a bad one on a Honda. If you can hear it run, it's likely fine.